96 century fan control

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by AshTray900, Jul 21, 2015.

  1. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    my system has two fans, a push fan and a pull fan, the push fan is much more powerful. now with ac on the pull fan runs constantly and the push fan runs only when hot, ive tested relays too and since they work I don't think they are shorted.

    now with ac off the car will get to 3/4 on the gauge and then the pull fan comes on and that's it, it cools slowly and then shuts off before it gets back to the middle which is where it stabilizes after thermostat opens.

    my thoughts would be this should work as such, pull fan comes on as soon as it raises a little above center to keep it cool, its a quiet slow fan, then when needed if it does get to 3/4 the push fan comes on with all its power and cools it quickly just as it does with ac on except for the fact that the pull fan is on 100% of the times.

    is this correct operation or do I have some other control module issue, also ive thought about wiring it so it runs like it does with ac on, just all the time but without kicking compressor on in the process, im sure there is an ecu wire that I could short to do this whitout tripping ac clutch as the pull fan stays on even when ac cycles off for a bit
     
  2. HandyAndy

    HandyAndy Well-Known Member

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    The fan on/off temps are comtrolled by the computer which on your car being a '96 I'm guessing would be OBDII.
    I don't much about Buicks, but many Caprice/Impala guys will program the fans to come on sooner than factory spec as they think that's too high, or they live in the south.
    As far as function, although we don't have a push/pull setup it has two fans. (I have a '96 Caprice)
    They function similarly to yours with one coming on with the AC., and both turning on/off according to the individually programmed temps.
    You need some tuner software to get in to that stuff.
     
  3. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    Quit overthinking stuff and solve one problem at a time, otherwise you will create new ones. What you have is correct operation.
     
  4. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    ok thanks! my mechanic friend said hey that's too hot, and I said hell you don't even know what temp that is there are no markings on gauge, and sending units are not all 100% spec, didn't feel like it was functioning improperly to me but he suggested otherwise, anyways thanks for the info, if its normal procedure I will leave it be
     
  5. KevinVarnes

    KevinVarnes Well-Known Member

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    I have a similar fan setup on my SuperCoupe. What OldFox said is right. It sounds like your system is working fine. The pusher fan doesn't come on in my car until something crazy like 225 or 230. Puller fans are more efficient than a pusher also.

    One thing to check if you don't feel like your cooling capacity is adequate is whether anything is blocking air flow to and through the rad. You can also check to see if your car originally had a chin spoiler and whether it is in place or not.

    Also, your stock temp gauge is not 100% accurate. Who knows what 3/4 actually correlates to. The only way to know for sure is to hook up a real gauge.
     
  6. HandyAndy

    HandyAndy Well-Known Member

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    It also need to be bled properly.
    A little air in the system is a bad thing.
    On my chevy there is a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing.
    You might also have two temp sending units, one in the head and one on the waterpump?
    And which one does the guage react to? hmmm?
     
  7. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    I did bleed properly, it has two bleeders.

    well engine crapped out, there was a crack in the intake manifold that spead to the temp sending unit eventually and popped it out and is blowing water all out so point is moot, engine has obviously been running hot for awhile, I know this because thinking back too when I got it, all grommets on engine were gummy, but all close were ok, original temp sender was not working properly, and I had to replace a couple pigtails, plus its probably why a hose that didn't look very bad blew a large split in the side, I don't trust any part of the engine, I am going to save up and have the entire assembly replaced by the shop, they quoted around 5 grand, even though that's high, they have been my go to guys for everything for 20 years and do excellent work, plus ill get a warranty with the motor, and ill get a new intake in the process obviously since motors rarely come without them. the difference between replacing intake and gasket and just gasket was only about 200 dollars, they did not diagnose the car I asked them for the quote specifically, and this will ultimate solve all engine related issues I have been talking about on here. the body is so excellent im not letting this wagon go since ill never find one this clean, paint looks new, carpet clean, dash still soft, headliner is not falling but is not plush anymore and visors have loose fabric, this is the only cosmetic issue at all besides a couple bent spots on the very underside about baseball sized.
     
  8. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    :slap::confused::slap::evilsmile:
    Why not just get a junk yard intake, replace it and new gaskets, see how it runs. $5000 is a lot of money if the original engine runs decent.
    __________________
    I believe I read this someplace else.:slap::whew:
     
  9. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    5000 is reassurance for long trips, plus doing the intake perfect so it doesn't leak is a little out of my leauge. It's not like the olds 307 I did
     

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