Station wagon newbie

If you do end up needing a turn signal switch, I have one. But I'm more concerned about the legal requirement of separate amber turn signals. To accomplish that, you'd have to rewire the circuits to separate the turn sig function, and that may require a different switch. There are Fords (such as the '70s Granada) that had separate amber turn signals, but the switch design is simply unusable on your wagon. Isn't there a legal remedy that allows you to license the vehicle but not have to do the conversion?

 

Don't you worry your pretty little head about it, I've sorted the turn signals as follows:
Reverse lights are now turn signals (with an orange bulb). Separated the brake lights from the turn signals by interrupting the wire from the brake pedal before it goes the steering column, and added another reverse light mounted to the underside of the bumper. It sounds dog poop but looks ok.

Got another problem now. Took her out for a spin tonight (because we got the paperwork through and the plates made up this morning) and it appears to have a total lack of power. It revs fine in park, but when it's under load it can't seem to handle it. I'm thinking fuel filter, now you are the oracle on these matters so what do you recon? I'm i barking up the wrong tree??

 

Here's an update guys. We've replaced the fuel filter and it still has no power. On closer inspection under the hood it looks like a number of vacuum hoses are brittle and at least three are broken and just hanging there. Problem is, I have no idea where they are supposed to go.
Would anyone out there happen to have a photo of the driver side of the engine with the air filter removed so that I could get some idea? I've been scouring the internet for photos, videos and diagrams with no joy.
Thing is, would this cause the car to have a severe lack of power when driving? Any help will be greatfully recieved.

 

One has to be very careful working on the passenger side of those Fords because of the vaccuum lines. All plastic and brittle from the engine's high heat and cold outdoor temperatures. A good temporary fix is to find very thin "straws" (for lack of a better word) and fit them back together and tape them up really well. I had to replace all of mine as well as the "vaccuum fusion bank" that they all connected into but those parts were still available back then. Good vaccuum is very important for those 302 Ford's. Just notice the "coffee" can they have to store it up in!

Page 36-11-18 of the Car Shop manual talks about the heater vaccuum motor. Page 36-70-11 has a good diagram dealing with the automatic temperature controls. There's a lot to this stuff, see attached diagram.
Good luck.

 

Thank you so much. I'll try it out and let you know how I get on.

 

Thanks for the advice the other day. We replaced a couple of vacuum pipes that were broken and took it out for a spin. It drove perfectly............. For 3 miles then ran like it did before, with a lack of power. Starting to pull my hair out now. I think one of the vacuum hoses further down may have broken. It's driving me nuts at the moment!

 

Here one would say to "take a deep cleansing breath." Across the pond you might say...(see attached).

 

My apologies for disappearing; I had an emergency, for which I had to pawn my computer. Anyway, one thing that can act like a big vacuum leak is the EGR valve, behind the 'fuel charging assembly,' If the valve is bad and stuck in the open position, the resulting exhaust gas will dilute the air/fuel mixture, just like a vacuum leak will. Remove the EGR valve position sensor from the top of the valve, then push as hard as you can on the center of the valve diaphragm inside to ensure it closes. Replace the sensor and remove & plug the EGR vacuum line and drive. If it drives well, it's the EGR or the control system for it. Let me know how it turns out.

 

Hey no problem. Good news is we've sorted it. We repaired a couple of vacuum pipes then reset the timing. That seems to have solved the problem. Although it does tick over a bit high on e the choke has shut off.

 

I can't remember on the EEC-IV fuel charging assembly, but I think it's supposed to have a stepper motor to open and close the throttle to control idle; at least, the mid-sized LTDs with the 3.8L did, but there should be a low idle adjustment on it. However, you need to make sure there aren't any other vacuum leaks, which will cause a raised idle, before making any adjustments to the low idle.

 

OK, I stand corrected...the EEC-IV FCA does not have a stepper motor, but it does have the vacuum-controlled idle control unit, and there is a procedure for setting the low idle on it. Also, ensure the high/curb enrichment linkage is completely unloaded when the engine is at hot idle. If the enrichment linkage thermostat is misadjusted, it can keep the linkage in the curb idle position.

 

Cool. Will have a look this week and report back. Thanks again for your help.