Most all interior light brightness across car makers where controlled off headlight switch, so I think you're assessment is correct. I had quite a few lights in my '63 Mercury dash not working. It turned out that the sockets had fallen out of the dash. I didn't see them at first since they are only connecting to ground when inserted into the metal dash, so they weren't illuminating. Maybe you've got a similar issue.
Thank you! Hey Guys, Thank you for the comments and advice, I will give it a go. I'm not a very confident mechanic and the thought of stripping out the dash to get at the headlight switch with its many connections fills me with dread. If I can free up some rusty connections and it'll work that will be just fine for me. Thanks again, Rusty1
A little late to chime in here....... Did you get it fixed? If not, am I reading correctly that you have the kind of light switch that you pull/push on/off? Let me know.
Early 70's Mopar dash lights are usually grounded through one of the dash screws, if that particular one is not properly installed that would cause a no light condition. Not familiar enough with that year Fury to be able to say which one, a factory service manual might show a schematic for you.
Thank you for your suggestions! Hi, Yes the switch is one you pull to make the lights come on. First stop gives side lights, next stop gives head lights with full beam controlled with the foot dip switch. The switch rotates clockwise and anticlockwise: my understanding is that this will control the brightness of the dash lights. If I turn the switch all the way anticlockwise the interior dome light comes on. The dash lights themselves are not in the instruments but above them behind blue lenses. I have a replacement switch but I am a little reluctant to get involved in stripping the old one out as I tend to be kind of good at making a hash of these things. There are many connections on it which adds to the likely hood of me goofing it up. I guess though it may come to that. I will certainly look to see if there could be a grounding issue - that would be a let off! Thanks again!
As long as the wiring is not damaged, the whole shebang should simply unplug from the switch with one connector, then plug directly into the new one.
OK! Hi, Thank you, maybe I'll pluck up the courage to have a go! Actually getting to the back of the switch by removing the dash is the bit that worries me most but we'll see. Thanks!
When I get home from work tonite, I'll see about getting some pics together for you to ease your mind a little.
Thanks again! Hey, for thanks again for all your help and suggestions. Perhaps the next thing I'll need is some dry weather to work on the car. Those of you who have been to the UK at this time of the year perhaps know how dark, wet, miserable and cold it can be. Thanks again.
Ahhh if I remember correctly you don't take apart that dash. you pull the knob or the shaft remove the holding nut and take it out the back. I hope your hands are not "large"!
In the meantime...... Have you checked youtube? Here's a video I found. The car is a '66, but, its pretty much the same procedure. On your '73, I'm not sure if you have to remove the bezel, but, the rest is the same. Disconnect battery, push in the button on the bottom of the switch (and pull the knob out while holding the button), then remove the nut from the front. Once the switch is loose, there should be two locking tabs that hold the connector onto the switch that need to be pried away to get the harness unplugged. In the video, notice that white stuff that falls into the guy's hand and the little coil spring looking piece? That should be in the (white) porcelain piece. That is what controls the dash lights. When it corrodes and breaks away (like in the video), you'll have no dash lights. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8zDaIGbA0E I'm posting this for now because my extra light switch I was going to take pics of, wasn't where I thought it was. I'm going to have to hunt a little for it. Hope this helps.
Thanks again! Hi, Once again I want to say thank you for the helpful comments I have received from folks. Satilite 73 thank you for the details of the YouTube video. Unfortunately the switch on my car isn't located in the same way as the one on the film; I found a picture of the dash of a car the same as mine, the web address is here: http://www.2040-cars.com/Plymouth/F...wagon-400ci-v8-power-rear-window-runs-506234/ If you open the link and then click on view "View all Photos" you will see a picture of the dash - it's the same as my car. You can probably make out the light switch it's on the top left. At least I have learnt from recent postings that the connections to the switch are in a block connection so if I do get to the switch reconnecting should be easy - even for me. I am going out to brave the cold and have another look - I spend a lot of time looking these days. At least that's better than jumping in on jobs and finding myself surrounded with parts and not knowing how to put them together. Ho - hum. Thanks fellas. Have a good day!
I am not overly familiar with the dash on those cars, but friends of mine had a 78 Newport and we had a 72 Dart. On both cars, the metal part of the dash top was held on by spring clips, and essentially lifted out with no tools needed. That allowed access to the rear of the instrument panel to change bulbs and to the back of the headlamp switch. Much easier than having to climb under the dash.
Found a couple of wire diagrams for the 73 Fury. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73FuryA.JPG http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73FuryB.JPG Had to blow them up a lot bigger to read (press ctrl button and + button at the same time, repeatedly, to keep making bigger on a PC). Chart B shows a ground at each cluster light and the orange feed wire continues to the ashtray light that has its own ground. There is also a separate instrument panel ground but the location is not shown. Further investigation shows radio might NOT have an inside light and orange wire, probably lit by the light bar above it that also contains the other instrument lights, bar should come off without removing rest of instrument cluster. (The radio connector should also have orange wires going to the light in it but that is left out of the diagram. If you have a cut radio wire harness then that may be part of your problem.) The diagrams are incomplete and don't show a power source for the orange wires which are all the dimming lights.
Wiring diagrams Hi, Thank you for taking the time and effort to post the links for the wiring diagrams. I'll have a good look and I am sure they'll help. Rusty1
