Hi, I would like to get the gas tank fixed on my '68 Colony Park. When I try to fill up the tank, it begins to drip when I get near the top. The fuel comes down from somewhere up top and drips from the front of the tank. I figure that the sender seal may be bad. My gas gauge is also dead so the float may have sunk. I was wondering what would be involved to get my tank fixed? I figure I need to have the tank dropped. Do I need to simply obtain a sender seal and float from an auto store? Are there part number I should use for the sender seal and float respectively? Do I need to replace the sender itself? My tank does not leak anywhere else. Thanks, Wayne
Getting another fuel sending unit is going to be hard, real hard as they are wagon only (been there done that with my 72). Took me a long time and I happened to big time luck out getting a NOS item from the States. I don't have time now but I'll find the link to the company I dealt, maybe they can help or at least steer you in the right direction. I think I paid $110 before shipping but keep in mind I totally lucked out. I don't know if it can be done but maybe you could have your unit rebuilt. While your there taking things apart I strongly suggest having your gas tank hot tanked and inspected, no point IMO because of the age of the car to not have it done.
The floats and seals from a number of model years will fit. First step is to determine where the leak is coming from. If you are in a pinch on the float, snap a pic of it and PM it to me and I might be able to help.
You don't have to drop the tank to get to the sender. There is a removable panel in the wheelwell. Mac's Antique Auto Parts has the float and o-ring. The float just snaps on to the float arm once you get the assembly out. I did this when I first got my 66 Ranch Wagon in 2010. The fuel gauge wasn't working, and I used to coat hanger to fish around in the tank to snag the float arm to see if the gauge would move, which it did. So the float was bad. Once I got it out, I found it was the original brass float and a hole had corroded through the side of it. Once you have it out, you might also consider whether you need to replace the pickup filter. Might as well since you'll have it all out. Mac's shows three of them. I don't remember which is was. This is not a very hard job. Hopefully that's all it is. I know I was worried about needing a whole new sender when I did mine, since I know how rare they are and how expensive when you find it. I've attached a pic of the wagon sending unit from when one was on eBay years ago. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...ank-sending-unit-o-ring-ford-and-mercury.html http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...float-brass-as-original-ford-and-mercury.html http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_passenger/catalogsearch/result/?q=fuel+filter&x=0&y=0
I guess I forgot to mention, and not sure if you were aware. The tank bung for the sender is on the side of the tank on wagons. That's why removable panel gives you access, and why there's no need to drop the tank to access it, unlike the sedans and coupes.
Also, here is an underneath photo of a 66 Ford (65-68 Fords/Mercs should all be the same). You'll notice the panel in front of the tank. Just a few bolts hold that in. The sender is on the front side of the tank, which might be why you see leaking gas at the front (suggesting a leaking seal).
The first thing you should determine is what the exact problem with your gas gauge is. You're assuming it's a bad sender, but it might not be. If the fuel gauge system is typical of those years, it's just a single circuit running from a power source through the gauge to the sender, which is just a variable resistor, and then to ground. The first question is, what, exactly, does your gas gauge do, if anything, when the ignition is on? Does it move at all in response to the amount of fuel in the tank? Does it park itself in one position and stay there? A common failure mode for these systems is a bad ground. You should check the wire from the sending unit to ground and make sure that the connection is clean and tight. A bad or non-existent ground is an open in the circuit and normally causes the gauge to be stuck on F or well past it. If, on the other hand, there is a short-circuit somewhere in the wiring, the gauge will stay on E at all times. The normal test procedure is to disconnect the hot wire at the sending unit (or pull apart the connector if there is one between the hot wire from the sending unit and the gauge) and ground the side coming from the gauge. With the key ON, the gauge should go to E. Disconnecting this wire from ground with the key ON should cause the gauge to go to F. If these tests are passed, the dash gauge is fine. If the ground is verified to be good as well and the gauge still doesn't function correctly, then the next thing to suspect is the sending unit. But it would be good to verify that the problem is actually the sending unit before you go through the trouble to find one, replace it, and then discover the problem still exists.
Jaunty's comments are right on. The other possibility is a special dash resistor/transformer, usually behind the gauges that brings the voltage down for the gauges and dash lights to something around 5 volts from 12, and 0.5 amps. Its a metal box about 3/8" wide, by 1" long by 1/2" high. I think they came into production in 1967. If you can find an EVTM for your wagon or ask a dealer if they can find out, that may explain some of Jaunty's points too. EVTM=Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooter's Manual. EBAY is a good source.
That's why I attempted fishing mine with a coat hangar. I did all the service manual wiring checks and it was all good. So it was basically down to the sending unit. Then panic sets in about it possibly being the sending unit itself with the resistor, and all the associated cost/struggle to find one. But I figured if I was able to grab a hold of the float arm, move it, and see the gauge respond with the key on, then everything was good and it would only be the float. I hope that's all that it winds up being for waynestevens too.
This is why the OP needs to be systematic in his troubleshooting of the fuel gauge problem. Check the wiring FIRST before getting into getting access to the sending unit and testing it.
HI, Thanks everyone for the tips! My gas gauge stays empty and doesn't move at all. Nothing changes with the ignition on. I will check the ground connection. Most of my idiot lights are dead. Once in a while the cold light comes on. The right turn indicator light always works and the left turn indicator light worked one time. The speedometer light works as it should and changes in intensity with the light switch. The speedometer works but the odometer gear is frozen at 67999.9. I It's frustrating trying to drive this car since I don't know how much fuel is in the tank. I figure with the sender being pulled out, it doesn't hurt to put a new float in and go from there. So to access the panel, I would need to remove the rear tire, unbolt the access panel, and use a special tool to unscrew the sender. Do I need to drain all fuel prior to doing this? Thanks, Wayne
This actually suggests that the problem is NOT a bad ground (although you should still check it) as a bad ground would normally lead to the gauge staying on Full. A gauge stuck on empty, at least as far as wiring is concerned, suggests an open circuit. Make sure the wiring from the gauge to the sender is complete and whole with no breaks anywhere. If you can reach and remove the sender without having to remove the tank from the car, then, no, you don't need to fully drain the tank. You need to drain it only so the level of fuel is below that of where the sender attaches.
And again, you might try to see if you can hook the sender arm with a piece of wire or coat hanger. Once you do that, you can pull up on it and see if the gauge reacts. That worked on my 66 as the end-all, be-all of whether the gauge wiring system was working. It was a little tedious for me, since my float was sunk and the arm was all the way at the bottom. Another thing to consider is that once you get the access panel off, you can get to the electrical connector to do more testing before trying to pull it. I can't remember if any of the troubleshooting involved testing it with the plug disconnected, or shorting it to ground, or what kind meter readings to take. Also, I was able to remove the sending unit locking ring without a special tool. I think I carefully tapped on it with a screwdriver and hammer to break it loose. It's just a slip ring with tabs to hold the sender tight against the o-ring. There's no threads or anything that I remember. If you break the ring or if it's too rusted, Mac's has those too. I know this is a lot of info, but I found it very easy to remove the sender from the tank. Good luck!
Hi, I was wondering which fuel filter sock worked for you. There is a 3/8in original and a 5/16in repro. I'd rather get a repro unit that functions. I'm going to go ahead and order the float and sender seal. Since the seal is leaking, it makes sense to change the other stuff inside. I'll try the coat hanger to pull up my float. I was hesitant using a metal coat hanger since I did not want to create a static spark inside the tank. Thanks, Wayne This is not a very hard job. Hopefully that's all it is. I know I was worried about needing a whole new sender when I did mine, since I know how rare they are and how expensive when you find it. I've attached a pic of the wagon sending unit from when one was on eBay years ago. Thanks, Wayne
Oh gosh, I have no idea which one I used. Perhaps Mac's could answer your question if you order from them, I did notice the original one they have, but it's $50 and 50 years old. I'd definitely go with the reproduction filter like you said. The only other thing I can suggest is to wait until you get it out and see what size it looks like. You know, the static thing never crossed my find when fishing in the tank. But I do remember that it was nearly possible to fish around without the coat hanger touching the side of the filler neck. So I guess it would stay pretty much grounded. If you are concerned about it, you could clip a section of wire to the end of the coat hanger and ground the other end of the wire to the ground or the car body.
