I need a new brake booster for my 67 Ford Country Sedan and I'm considering upgrading to a Hydroboost unit for the extra stopping power. What years/ models should look for that will bolt on without an adapter? I have read they come in 70's full size Mercury's and Lincolns and more recently, Mustangs, F350's, and Motor Homes. The most popular swap I've come across online is the Chevy Astro HB unit with a Corvette master cylinder.
Does anyone have any experience with Hydro-Boost Brakes on their wagons or other vehicles? Hydro-Boost Brakes are Power Brakes that use high pressure from the Power Steering Pump to assist braking instead of manifold vacuum. Far more braking power and the added safety feature of a backup accumulator to stop the vehicle in case of engine failure. My 03 GMC had the Alternator fail and the engine die while going down the interstate one night. I coasted to the nearest exit and a near by gas station before trying to use my brakes. Uh-oh!!! No brakes and I was headed straight for the gas pumps!!! I crunk the steering wheel as hard as I could, stomped the e-brake and came safely to a stop. Engine had died... so did the power brakes. Not an experience I'd like to repeat nor do I want my wife to ever face while driving the wagon.
Won't your power brakes die just the same way once the engine stalls or the belt brakes? I don't have a whole lot of experience with them, but my old '81 Cutlass Diesel had the hydroboost brakes on them. I never could tell much difference between those and a vacuum assist power brake system.
A. Hydroboost doesn't have "far more braking power." b. You always have manual brakes if the engine dies. It's the law. 3. There should be enough vacuum in the booster for several applications of the brake pedal after the vehicle dies. IV. There should also be residual vacuum stored in your vacuum canister. Five. The first thing you do is drop your trans into a lower gear to slow you down. You probably panicked when you lost both your steering and power brakes and started pumping your brakes, thereby exhausting the residual vacuum. I worked on a lot of hydroboost systems over the years and they generally suck. I can't say anything about current systems.
Yes as written. Even with the engine off you have enough vacuumn for a few stops. And when that is gone you still have a hard pedal but the brakes are still gonna work. The only thng I had with hydroboost was my Dodge motorhome. For as heavy as that big box was it seemed to stop fine with the hydrboost. On the other hand have you ever stopped a Model T, Model A, or 1933 Chevy? The biggest scare I ever had was stopping my 1949 Dodge with manual brakes after driving through a flood up to the doors.
I guess I'll just replace the vacuum booster then. I know the classic Bronco guys think its the best swap ever. But then again, I'm not rolling on giant mud tires.
The best thing about swapping out using the Ford vacuum booster is that the brand new master cylinder is CHEAP! Ford used the same dual-circuit master cylinder right through to the end of the 87 model year, and brand new is well under $70. Last I checked, the rebuild kit is all of $18! The best upgrade that can be made on an old car is to put on disc brakes and a dual circuit master cylinder. Having hauled MUCH more than was healthy with a 79 Thunderbird without trailer brakes, and still managing to stop just fine told me how very capable the Ford brakes are, even with rear drums.
the only system that will work after motor failure is 'electric' brakes..and im seeing a lot of RODs go to that set up in the last couple years...but its pricy !! as for better brakes?...i tow a 3000 lb trailer with my 68...and it stops fine...actually...better that the x's Grand POS Cherokee
