Introducing, the Bronze Battle Cruiser, the 1977 Delta 88

Just thought I'd throw up an update, started my car today, decided to fiddle with the climate controls....

I flip it over to Air Conditioning, Max, engine kicks down... Blower kicks on... Bit later, cold air... Wait, what? I got a $650 car, with a 350 with minor lifter noise, a strong transmission, new radiator, remanned alternator and starter, good tires, AND working air con? And all it needs is shocks, rear brake work, and the E brake pedal to be replaced? Alright then, no idea how I pulled that one off, but, merry christmas to myself?

 

But does the heater work ?

 

One thing to consider with your A/C..... Your temp today is to go up to 67 with a low of 59....
http://weather.yahoo.com/united-sta...naDdoBHNlYwNzYwRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkA1ZJUDM0MV8x
Today - Cloudy with periods of rain. High 67 °F (19.4 °C). Winds SSW at 10 to 20 mph (16.1 to 32.2 kph). Rainfall near a half an inch.

In this temp range my Blue Old's A/C blows cold also but come summer heat/temps it just doesn't cool ya. I find the opposite effect with the heater, summer time you could cook a chicken on the dash with the heat cranked full, yet winter time it will only keep it warm after it's cooked.

 

I learned something about my late model Dodge truck. When the heater core sprung a leak the A/C had one setting -0000000000 !
Had to turn it off and on to keep from freezing even when 100+ outside.
Also learned a new engine is easier to replace than a heater core.

 

I think you found a great deal! Have fun with it.
Add those new shocks, find a F41 larger diameter front sway bar and the rear bar; it will make a HUGE difference in handling.

 

Yeah, it will probably need service, but it's a step ahead of anything else I've had. It was pretty humid out, so I figured, "Let's see if it works".

And yes, Cat, the heat works great, car was running for less than a minute and it had it scorching out of the vents. I also know about the heater core, we had to replace the one on my wagon, it was not fun.

Thanks for the info on the swaybar JMT, will keep that in mind. There is a Caprice up in the junkyard, 90's, 9C1 package as used as a fire chiefs car, those aren't the best sway bars, but they are a start, probably yank those and the aluminum bullet hole wheels if the car hasn't been squashed, it was being picked apart pretty quick last I saw. If not, I can find something else, there are a few other cars to look at up there. Too bad the wagon bars don't really fit, there are two B body wagons up there I know of that I'm going to look at for the E brake assembly.

 

I wasn't slamming your car, if I needed another car and couldn't find a wagon I'd be on the hunt for something like yours. Keep in mind, all of my wagons were purchased just under what you spent.

 

Has the front end look of the Wagon Queen Family Truckster.

 

won it in a poker game

 

Been a while since I posted on here, but I thought I'd throw an update up. Haven't go the car on the road yet, hopefully will soon, I've got the parts, just haven't had time to put them on.

I removed the chrome rocker, wheel well, and rear door side trim (Not the top window trim, the trim along the crease by the door jamb), and this is what I found underneath and around it.

Pic of the car since I removed the mangled rocker, and wheel well trim:



Mismatched fenders, note the color difference between the header panel, and the filler and fender on the drivers side:



Pass side fender, the side that appears to have been repainted:



Another shot of the fender, showing the paint does not mismatch like the drivers side:



Shot of the pass side rear door jamb, showing a horrid paint mismatch:



Shot of the rear drivers side door, showing no paint mismatch:



Pass side fender rust:





And the rocker damage which turned out to be less severe than ti appeared from the chrome damage:

Pass side:



Drivers side:




And, the paint line on the inside of the hood:




Also, it bit me while removing the pretty badly mangled rear drivers side wheel well trim. I was pulling it off the car and it cut my right index finger right behind the knuckle. Didn't hurt, didn't even notice it happened 'til I noticed I was bleeding.

Rest of the pics of the car since you last saw it, not much has changed:

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/Dead-Reckon/library/1977 Delta 88 2013?sort=3&page=1

All in all, I live no current plans for cosmetic work to be done to this car, the rust is on panels which can simply be replaced with a bolt on. I don't have power anything, so the door is an easy swap. Fender will be a bit harder 'cause it takes two people to remove the hood, but as I said, no plans to replace either at this point. Rockers will not be touched at all, if I ever repaint the car it will just be flat black so I don't have to look at the shades of gold anymore. That tends to hide dents pretty well, so I'm not concerned about the rockers.

Anyway, just thought I'd show y'all what's been going on with the car. All I've got left to buy is an oil filter, 'nother quart of oil, some ATF to take care of the lifter noise, a tank of premium on top of some injector cleaner, and she should be running like a dream. I'm hoping to get a true dual 2" exhaust system (manifolds back, no crossover pipe) put on this spring. Same mufflers my wagon had, 'cept it only had one and people thought it was too loud.

Side note, my trunk is filling up with things related too the car, no idea what's up with the duct tape strips, they where there when I bought it:

 

Go with an H cross over. It gives better performance, slightly better mileage, and most of all, protects the engine if one muffler or pipe gets damaged. Unequal back pressure burns valves pretty quickly

 

Just a quick update, got the rear brakes done a few weeks ago, been driving it since.

So, the carburetor sucks, literally, it's pulling too much air and is running lean.

The front brakes are scary, need to be replaced, rotors, calipers, and pads

Rear ceramic shoes are great, new drums work well, wagners of course.

Still gotta do the shocks, springs seem fine now that the car has been driven, they have stiffened back up.

Blower fan is rigged off the resistor wiring 'cause it won't work otherwise, long story for later.

Drivers side door lock ejected from the car

Tires are newish, but suck, cheap coopers in the front, too mushy, cheap goodyears in the back, can't hold the road.

Need three headlights, took the good one from the wagon, and it's brighter than the other three combined.

Passed inspection last saturday, woohoo!

So still to do, shocks (Got them, ain't put them on), front brakes (ain't got the parts), better tires (will find used, 235/70 or 75R15), carburetor needs to be rebuilt (Found someone to do it for $150, including parts, and removal / reinstallation), and, the exhaust is still way too quiet, so that'll be replaced with a set of true dual two chamber 2" mufflers.

It's also getting an oil change when I do the front brakes and all four shocks, it doesn't really need one, but I think the cheap oil is causing lifter noise, might have to adjust or replace the lifters.

Sorry for the speedy updates and / or typo's, gotta get to work soon, but I'll forget to post this for another week if I don't do it while it's on my mind.

 

Sounds like a good start.

Just some words of advice on the carb rebuild, those old Q-jets most ofter need the housings bushed were the primary throttle shaft goes thru the base plate. I would no rebuild one without installing bushings, when the holes in the baseplate become elongated, it will always run lean untill this issue is fixed.

Also make sure a good rebuild kit is used that the seals and gaskets are compadible with todays gas!!!! Most of the older kits (more than 2 years old) the accelerator pump seal will swell and become usless in no time at all. I can send you a link were to purchase a good quality kit, with a bushing kit if you like. They are not the 19.95 autozone prices though.

 

Did you try to adjust the carb before having it rebuilt? Those carbs are dead easy to set up right, and I have had them last a LOT of miles with no issues, and even had them start correctly at -40.

 

Yeah, send me a PM with the link, I'll look into it. I don't shop at autozone or advance except to sometimes find Shell Rotella oil, or something cosmetic to hide a defect on the car.

I have not, I'm sure it needs to be adjusted, but I'm also certain the seals are turning into goo. I snugged down the carb a quarter turn on all four bolts with a 1/4" ratchet and it still leaks a small amount. It's obvious the ethanol has eaten this faithful old carburetor from the inside out. I'm also fairly certain the accelerator pump is leaky and / or sticking, but the secondaries still open at about 3/4th throttle like they should when it's warmed up. So I'm gonna have it rebuilt before it gets worse than screwy idle when it's cold. Besides, I think 225,009 miles (as of yesterday afternoon when I got home from work) is a good run for a carburetor, well that and 37 years.

Side note, couldn't resist flipping the air cleaner lid, I love hearing those old Q-jets open up, it scares the hell out of traffic when I pull onto the interstate.