What have you done to your wagon lately? (Let's keep the thread going!)

Discussion in 'General Station Wagon Discussions' started by Dogbone, Jul 25, 2011.

  1. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    I am still chasing a leak in the passenger's side front footwell of my 91 OCC. I am also trying to fix a few maintenance items, or at least they originally were maintenance items...I went under the car, because the passenger's side exhaust was hanging a little low. I thought it was a slack clamp, but when I got under it, I found only one of three bolts holding the pipe to the header, and it was loose...no wonder it was hanging low. I think I am going to put another hanger on the pipe.

    I accidentally touched one of the bolts that hold the core support to the frame, and it moved...I found out that they did not have nut on either of them. They were just sitting there. I reinstalled the bolts properly, and shake my head whenever I think about the amount of time they were like that (about a year and a half). It seems that the students at the local Vo-tech school who replaced my core support "forgot" about them.

    I replaced the column with a FW column, and now have flash to pass, and am keeping the FW shift lever with a custom wood shift knob stained to match the interior fake woodgrain. While I had the column out, I cleaned up my Jeep intermediate shaft, and gave it a coat of paint.

    I still have not found the leak. So, I am going to shoot some pressurized air inside at the area of the leak with dishwashing liquid on the outside. The bubbles will tell me where the water is coming in.

    My 92 had a problem with idling a couple of weeks ago. The tach was jumping around, and it would stall unless I kept my foot on the gas pedal, so I figured it was the ignition module on the distributor. When I took the cap off, it looked nasty, as did the rotor. So, I took them back to Autozone for my warranty and got a new set for free. I had to whack the rotor (I used a block of wood, and a BFH) to get it to seat on the distributor shaft. I swapped out a good used ignition module, and it runs perfectly now. The once in a while hard start has disappeared as well.

    I am going to my brother's tomorrow to help him with his van. He has a problem with vertigo when he is under the van, and can not work on it. I believe him, because he is one to do his own work, and he would not ask me if it was not for real.
     
  2. dewaynep

    dewaynep New Member

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    I took the cooler weather today to install new plug wires and spark plugs that I've had for a few weeks. I also buffed out the overspray on the front header panel that the previous owner got on there when he painted the radiator core support, then I polished the entire 100 yard long hood. Now I remember what I hated most about polishing all of my dad's antiques and classics: everything!!!
     
  3. cammerjeff

    cammerjeff Longroofs Rule!

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    I finally had time this weekend to replace the failed Master Cylinder (easiest master cylinder I have ever changed.) the A/C Blower Motor, and the worn out front Sway bar bushings and end links.

    Now to find time to replace the rear speakers and install the rear cargo panels that have the factory Carpeting!!!!!!
     
  4. markwash50

    markwash50 New Member

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    very nice wagon ,keep up the good work
     
  5. rsavage

    rsavage Active Member

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    Took the wagon to a car show Saturday. Received an award of excellence and lots of interest. I normally show my 71 K5 Blazer or my 65 Fairlane Hipo so I was pleasantly surprised. I sure like driving that wagon. Maybe a cruise tonght if the weather holds.
     
  6. mugzilla

    mugzilla B F H er

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    I think judges are ready for something different. I get massive interest wherever I drive.
     
  7. markwash50

    markwash50 New Member

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    Marks bu

    i just got the BU back fom the fab shop. on to the next problem , check her out on markwash5o:slap:
     
  8. 72KingswoodEstate

    72KingswoodEstate Well-Known Member

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    More progress on mine... engine is about together! Should be together and running again by the weekend... at that point, the exhaust will be cut before the mufflers and power checked. Soon! Soon!!!
     
  9. Fred Kiehl

    Fred Kiehl Well-Known Member

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    Well I think I finally found the leak in my front passenger's side footwell. I sealed all of the seams I could see when I had the wheelhouse off (twice), and then ran water on it for about a half hour. I still got water. It came from high in the dash. I looked again, and found a small hole that does not look like it leads to the interior. I sealed it anyway. Last night I ran water over the area for about an hour...no water inside.

    Since I pulled the whole dash out of the car, I decided to replace the steering column, because the old one would not allow me to start the car in neutral. In swapping the column with one from a FW, I added flash to pass. I also had to disable the push brake to shift system (I used a spring). The column needed a paint job to match my dark maple red interior, and I am using the FW shift lever with a custom wood shift knob.

    While I was working on the car, I decided to do a few maintenance items, and the start of a mod.

    I put another pipe hanger on my passenger's side exhaust. It was hanging a bit low, and I thought I had a loose clamp. Well I was sort of right...the header only had one nut holding the pipe to it. I think it was the fault of the trans rebuilder, because he was the last one to have the exhaust off.

    I also found (by chance) that the students who replaced my core support forgot to put the nuts on the bolts that hold it to the frame. Another fix that will make the car quieter.

    The horns on the OCC are a little weak, so I added a set from the passenger's side of a Roadmaster.

    I decided to put a cold air intake on the Starship, and moved the charcoal canister under the old location. I now have room for a cold air box where the canister was. To mount the canister I had to remove the front bumper cover. I used the canister bracket from an LT1 B-body, and put it on the driver's side. More bolts not properly installed. After a couple of hours of frustration, I finally got the bumper cover back on. I can now use the airbox from an LT1 B-body, TBI hat from a Caddy. a piece of Lowes PVC pipe, and a rubber 45 degree elbow.

    I am just about done with all the current projects. I will hit the streets in the next couple of days.
     
  10. pvan

    pvan Well-Known Member

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    Finally got tired of trying to straighten out the driver door, so I bought a frameless replacement and have removed the skin from both doors. Next up will be a little clean up and prep before installing the "new" door skin on the original door frame. Also purchased the DS rear door for the same procedure.
     
  11. JimpeBoy

    JimpeBoy Active Member

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    New shocks, new tailgate seal, washed and polished and ready for Classic car week 2013

    [​IMG]

    Airride-kit is on the way!
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Dewey Satellite

    Dewey Satellite New Member

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    Sweet bowtie Jim, can't wait to see it with the altitude ajustment. (y)
     
  13. 72KingswoodEstate

    72KingswoodEstate Well-Known Member

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    What have I done lately? :) Well I spent all evening (about 3 hours) getting my '72 back together... all I have left to do is install a new alternator belt! :)

    That is just to get it running again... the power problem still there, but either going to disconnect or cut the mufflers loose tomorrow to see if the low power problem is a clogged exhaust... if that fails... plan "B".

    The fun part is been tracking down lost bolts. I took the car apart over 2 years ago and several bolts had went missing (mostly the water pump bolts), some hose clamps and an alternator belt. The 1st belt they sold me was too long (sold me one for the cars that have an air pump and that was all they had listed!).... sold me one smaller, too short, so back to the parts store in the morning to get one longer and hopefully get the right one. Hopefully I can at least get it moved to the paved part of the driveway so I can work on it and get it out of the mud, which is where it is now.

    A good wash tonight and a detail tomorrow... at least it can look good in the driveway. :) This is the last time I will reassemble this engine... next time it will be someone else. ;)

    My dad supervised me to make sure it was getting it back together correctly. He took a bad fall about 6 months ago (off of the roof of the house!), so not really physically able to help now... his shoulder is still very painful.
     
  14. SwannyMotorsports

    SwannyMotorsports Well-Known Member

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    Excited to see if you can get her back on the road 72kingswood. She deserves to be drove
     
  15. BlueVista

    BlueVista Well-Known Member Charter Member

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    The cruise control on my '92 stopped working so I did the FSM diagnostics and it was a bad module. I went to the boneyard and procured another one and installed it, works good now. I was having trouble with it shutting off at random by itself too, I know some other people have had the same thing happen. I searched around and found that there was a service bulletin for the problem.
    I did the contact cleaning, now I have to to find a resistor.

    INTERMITTENT/NO CRUISE CONTROL - REPLACE CHMSL BULB #92-8-160 - (07/15/1992)

    SUBJECT: INTERMITTENT OR NO CRUISE CONTROL OPERATION (REPLACE CHMSL BULB, ADD RESISTOR ON WAGONS)

    VEHICLES AFFECTED: 1992-93 "B" CARS CHEVROLET CAPRICE SEDANS AND WAGONS OLDSMOBILE CUSTOM CRUISER WAGON BUICK ROADMASTER SEDANS AND WAGONS

    CONDITION:

    ---------- The cruise control system may not operate on the 1992-93 B-cars. On wagons, the cruise control may be intermittent, may drop out while driving, or may fail to engage.

    CAUSE:

    ------ The ground for the brake switch signal to the cruise control module (part of the stepper motor assembly) goes thru the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL). If the stop lamp bulb is burned out, there will be no ground path for the cruise control. On wagons, the contacts for the CHMSL on the tailgate glass may corrode, causing intermittent operation. Adding a resistor will allow a ground through the brake switch without going through the bulb.

    CORRECTION:

    ----------- On both sedans and wagons, check for operation of the CHMSL bulb. If the bulb is burned out, replace it. This should correct the inoperative cruise condition.

    WAGONS ONLY:

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2. Remove the left rear quarter trim panel, as shown in Section 10-7 of the Service Manual.

    3. Locate the blue 8-way connector (C405), as shown in Figure 1. Find the yellow wire in cavity A, and the black wire in cavity F. The complete circuit is shown on page 8A-110-4 of the Service Manual.

    4. Obtain a 390 ohm, 2 watt, 5 percent resistor from a local electronics supply store. Splice the resistor from the yellow wire to the black wire, as shown in Figure 2. Be sure to solder the connections, then tape the wires.

    5. Reinstall the trim panel, then reconnect the negative battery cable.
     

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