Modern motor oils

Anyone have any simple useful advice/info on motor oil these days? I know there's been a bit of changes to the additive packages to adjust to modern engines with all the sensors and cat converters for example.

What about us guys running engines with flat tappets like the old 88 Trooper we've got? Old air cooled lawnmowers? What's best to run in them? I've looked around some on the "Bob is the oil guy" forum but that place is overwhelming to be honest. The rating system: is SM backward compatible (satisfies all standards back to the old "SE" days) for example?

Anyone have any experience/info on the Shell Rotella oils in automotive applications?

 

IIRC, HandyAndy is, or was, a reader of "Bob is the Oil Guy" forum and assimilated a lot of knowledge about oils. Perhaps he will chime in here. Rotella was discussed in a thread here, although, I don't remember to what degree. You may find that discussion with a search.
I know that I, personally, was a long time hold out for petroleum based oil. I was old school back when I tore engines down and held onto the old oils through the years until, later in life, I started to tear a few engines down again. When I saw the results of Mobil One engines compared to petroleum oil engines I became a believer in synthetics. Even today, it still bothers me to say the word synthetic in the same sentence with oil. But, the proof was there for anyone to see inside those engines. Not to mention that GM recommends Mobil One in my wagon's LT1 as well as other models. The recommendation is printed right on the oil cap. There has been discussion as to whether or not it's a good idea to switch to synthetic on older engines. Especially if they have been using petroleum oil all its life. The only problem that I have ever seen in the older engines is that the synthetics are so slippery that they will find any worn bushings etc and will leak out onto the pavement. However, if the older engine is in good shape that is not an issue and the synthetic works fine. I don't care what kind of engine it is anymore...I think the synthetics are a far superior product and, from what I have personally seen, will make an engine last far longer than traditional oils.

 

Nora is still running her 1978 351M, and when I bought her I immediately changed the oil. The first time, I used standard 10W30 for a short clean out. After that, I switched to Castrol Syntec 5w50, which is what my engineer brother said to use. She actually leaks LESS with the synthetic than with normal. Plus, my fuel economy is noticeably better than with regular, which tells me I'm getting better protection as well. My brother used it in both of his 351Ws, and they lasted almost 500,000 miles each. Nothing like full synthetic for good protection and it flows like water when cold, so you get pressure immediately on cold start.

 

Only real problem I've heard of, is when breaking in a rebuilt engine, or any time you're using a new flat tappet camshaft and/or new flat tappet lifters.
You need the zinc additive for about 3-5000 miles to break it in, especially with high spring rates.
Its been reduced over the years, and I believe gone in the last couple.

 

Small engines like those used on lawn mowers, don't have a problem with modern oils, since there is very little pressure on the cam lobes. You can move the valve tappets easily by hand.
The older automobile engines on the other hand, don't work well with the modern lubricants that are low in ZDDP, the zinc additive. I use modern oil and add a quart of Rislone oil with ZDDP additive. It costs about $10 and takes the place of one quart of oil, so it makes the price tolerable. If you don't have the ZDDP in the oil, you run the risk of engine damage, no matter how old or new your engine is. If it was designed for high levels of ZDDP, and you don't have it in there, you are gambling on your engine surviving. Just last week, a fellow lost his cam to wear when he didn't use the correct oil in his 1972 Chevy V8. When he drained the new oil, he found metal flakes at the bottom of the oil drain pan. That was the chrome pealing off the lifters where they contact the cam lobes. The car still runs, but poorly, and he is hoping to pass the problem onto the new buyer.... if he can find one..
For more information on ZDDP, please read this question and answer post...

 

I don't think it is. An old SE oil will have far more zinc than a modern oil because they've reduced the zinc because of damage to catalytic converters.
And I think this is now true for diesel oils as well.
If I was using dinosaur oil in an older engine I would be using an additive as well. I've got 200,000KM on the L99 engine and use cheap dino oil with an additive. It's probably a little too late to start that engine on synthetic.
I broke in the rebuilt Ford inline six with dino oil, now running Redline synthetic in that.

 

Its posted in many of my Magizines ( Hot Rod- Rod & Custom- NSRA streetscence..that the newer oils have less zinc and phosphorous and will cause damage to older engines that have taps vs roller.. Many independent Companys now offer additives to bring each oil change up to par. Some even sell the oil by the case with the old ratio of zinc and Phos..

 

There are pros and cons to synthetic vs regular oils. I was told long time ago when synthetics just came out that if you change your oil evry 3000 mi like you should , you can stick with regulars oils. If you are doing more stop and go driving or wait till you have 5000+ miles before you change, then synthetics are a better way to go.
All the oils anymore aren't cheap, but synthetics are even more costly ,so since I change my oil in all my cars ,I use Castrol 10W30 in every one.
When I had my pro street Dart, I used an additve of ZDDP because it had a solid lift cam and that additive is needed for that application. There are oils out the now like Joe Gibbs and others that have the additves for solid cams, but they aint cheap.
For my lawnmower I use a straight 30W every year.

 

Synthetic oils are really not more expensive when you factor in they can be run out more than twice the oil change interval than conventional oils. I plan to do my next oil change on the Redline stuff at about 10000KM.
And I got it on sale! Always buy on sale!

 

I have also heard that regular dino oil will stay put on engine surfaces better than synthetics which would give a little better protection at start up I'm guessing?

I was using Shell Bros. Rotella T 30wt in my mowers, it had a CF,CF-2, and SJ rating but can't find it anymore. I got a jug of Shell Bros. Rotella T1 which is just CF and CF-2 rated. No SJ anymore. What's the difference for lawnmower application?

 

That's backwards, it's the synthetic that "clings" to metal and has superior start up protection, especially in cold weather.

 

On a really cold morning, checking the oil pressure gauge, dino oil can take several seconds to get the pressure up. With full synthetic, I have full pressure almost as soon as the engine catches. You can hear the difference as well as see it. Also, I get about 60 miles (100 kms) more to a tank using synthetic.

 

brad penn makes high zinc oils for flat tappets, i run 30wt for break in and 10w30 in my aircooled engine and i have very high spring pressures. no failures yet. check www.thesamba.com for lots of good oil info!

 

Hiya hitman. I see some new posts from you around the forum. Why not introduce yourself in the Welcome Wagon section? We like to get to know new people and see what you are all about and what you drive etc.

 

I have allot of old oil in cans. Any way to tell the date. These are the late cans, cardboard with metal top and bottom just before the plastic bottles. I have old plastic bottles too. Penzoil.