My 289 is running hot. No matter what i do(thermostat,radiator) but nothing works. Any suggestions, I seem to be losing HP and i dont know where to start on gaining them back. Shes getting sluggish. any help would be appreciated. any tricks or free easy tune up tips.
These old Fords are supposed to run at 12 degrees before TDC. I normally run about 13. The other thing I would check is timing chain play. Lift the distributor cap, put a breaker bar on the cranksaft pulley and turn. See how far the crank turns before the rotor moves. It should, ideally, move right away. I've seen the Windsor engines run with almost 1/8th of a turn play in there.
I would agree with timing chain - if you're gonna replace it, get a earlier one, if a different # - after 73 they were retarded from the factory for pollution! Do the pump at the same time, too, since it's off!
I didn't see you mention the water pump. I don't know if it was other issues or just a bad run of pumps, but that 302 would eat water pump vanes. It wasn't leaking, but wasn't pumping nearly enough water either.
I guy I work with had a 68 Cougar with a 302 that would overheat at highway speed. He changed the water pump and torque converter. He had it tuned on a chassis dyno and checked for air/fuel ratio. Made sure he got all the air out of the system. Nothing worked. Finally, he changed the fan and it ran fine. Something to keep in mind.
Update i know its no water pump. Any suggestions on a cheap reliable Radiator. as well as more info on the cams. Even though im doing part by part on a month to month check. I seem to keep her running. My main goal is the fuel tank. I have a leak in the seam which is in the worst of places. Directly on bottom. Any Tips. Ive done temporary fixes but being unable to find a tank. Actions must be taken. Thanks Much N.G.W.E New Generation Wagon Enthusiasts-- info: Contact me if interedted in helping..(N.G.W.E is a group/club i would like to attempt to construct. Generally focusing on younger people such as myself and those just beginning there curiosity for Motor Art. I want to get Younger persons who share or wish to be apart of the most Underrated Vehicle in our society.) The Station Wagon(no matter ther year, or condition) deserves to be recognized as an American Classic. Unfortunetly, I recently had a conversation with a group of old timers who had absolutley nothing but rude and opinionated comments. The worst being that my wagon is worthless and doesnt deserve to have a price tag of 5,500. not even 300. WOW! But In my mind, The station wagon is nothing short of American Cars at there best. No other vehicle compares. My 289 is 44 yrs old and still running. (MORE THAN I CAN SAY FOR MOST CARS 2004 and newer.)
For the gas tank, check into a professional tank repair. It does work, and the good shops offer a long warranty on the repair as well. Friends of mine had to do that on the tank in a 78 Chrysler Newport and the repair outlasted the car just fine. It was also considerably less than the price of a new tank. When it comes to a new tank, what cars does it look like the tank may interchange with? How many gallons, and how is it configured? Is it a vertical tank or flat? My guess is that there is a tank out there somewhere that is interchangeable. You may need to check a Hollander's for that.
Its A verticle 20+ gal. Tank. And Shops in my town REFUSE to mess with it. Even when it was dry for almost a year. So ireally dont know. My tank has a digonal slant on the bottom corner and is mounted on the driver side behind the rear tire
From my research, the '65-'68 full size Ford wagons all use the same tank (vertical mount, left rear quarter) and nobody makes a new one that I have found. Have you checked with a local radiator shop for repair? If not, maybe you can check these guys out: http://www.gas-tank.com/
Cherry Wagon - I have a used radiator for a 302 that was used less than a year that I would sell you if you're interested. Of course, you'll get the Station Wagon Forums member discount! Let me know if you're interested. When I bought my wagon last year, the seller told me he put it in less than 6 months before I bought it. I had overheating problems driving it home from El Paso, TX, so when I got home I started tearing into the engine to see what the problem was and found that the timing chain and gears were very worn, and that the water pump wasn't flowing properly, along with some other problems that I rectified at that time. I replaced the radiator, not because it wasn't working, but because I had a new Griffin radiator already purchased. Let me know if you're interested.
Trust me...do not waste your time with anyone but these professionals. Spend the money and send your tank to them. If you look at my resto you will see they completely restored my tank for our 67 Ford Country Squire. Their fee was more than reasonable too. http://www.gas-tank.com/ Dr B
In flip beater Fords years gone by I've experienced the same problem in a 302 and a 351 Windsor, also a 250 inline 6 Chevy.. Cold engine lots of power but once they warmed up a very noticable power drop....gummed up engine was the problem. The fords, the 302's anitifreeze would look like crap after a day, but the 351 stayed clean (it was heavy gummed). Unhooking the rad hoses and hooked up a higher presure garden hose to power flush the engines while the engine is running giving some mild revs also ( I said Rev),,,....... The gunk that came out was OMG discusting. I'm not talking 2000PSI presure, but 2-3 times your garden hose presure. Also, your going to have a mess of a driveway unless you have somewhere you can do this. IMO, a old engine, is a old engine no matter how long you have taken care of it, someone owned it before and sh** does happen and clog up over years, I'm sure there is alot of old timmers that will tell you, free clean running water'anti freeze is just as important as a oil change
If you are sure that it is not the water pump. And the radiator and timing chain get sorted out, a head gasket might need to be discussed.. How is it running hot?? Around the block and it 220? Or is it a slow progression and it stays 210-210? Here are some ideas: Radiator cooling fan Belt slipping Main jets on carb Initial Timing Distributor weights. If they get bound up, you will not get advance and it will run hot Distributor weight springs. Same as above Vacuum advance can. If it is not working correctly, at cruise the total timing will not be correct. Bad coolant. Adding water wetter may help. I have had a Champion radiator for 3 years. No issues. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-64-65-...ar:1967|Make:Ford&hash=item27c7fac012&vxp=mtr If you do get a new aluminum get at least a 2 row 1"tube rad..