65 Chrysler Newport

Posted in general discussions also




After 6 sweaty and tiring hours I we were abke to drag the wagon onto a trailer. I found the good lever and the engine compartment look pretty good. The oil looks as new as when it was put in 10 years ago ( per the owner ). I was feeling good until I looked into one of the back windows and saw leaves.........the floors are rotted out in the back and also the floor pan at the rear third seat seat.

I cannot get any of the doors to open, sprayed PB Blaster in the door jamb at the hinges and even sprayed it all down the door lock bar.....mot even budgeing.

The body I feel is in amazing shape for its age a few surface rust spots and a dent in the left front fender and a new dent in the drivers door..........happened when loading.

The frame itself looks pretty solid, the undercoating is falling off though.

The back wheels roll but the front are locked up......maybe the break shoes are stuck???

Are the parts even available that I will need, what kind of u ndertaking id=s invloved in floor pans


I really like the wagon but feel it maybe be mor e than I can handle. Would really like some inout and advice from you guys that know alot more about this than I do. I look forward to hearing from all of you.

Thanks again

 

Hi,
i'm happy that you found the good lever to open the hood, and that you could tow it home. The car has airconditioning! I don't know what you have to do with the doors, but maybe others can help you with that. Do you know what the chrome thing is above the left taillight? The engine looks pretty good after 15 years.
Martyx

 

My guess is that it once was a ball mount for a big old Ham style whip antenna......will there be a prize for correct guess??

 

No, I just wanted to know what it was, I have never seen something like that before

 

I am thinking it was for a cb radio from back in the day.

The hood lever is off to the left when facing the front of the car.

Have the front wheel nuts sprayed down with PB Blaster, going to try and get them off to asses the issue with the front wheels not rolling. Then I can maybe get if off the trailer.

 

Nice Slabside Rob. Just remember that the two wheels on the left side have counter clock wise lug notz. Mother didn't stop with that nonsense 'til '71

 

Not sure what you are talking about BigBarney.

I got the front passenger side tire off before it got dark and hope to get the drum off tomorow. Then its to the drivers side. I look to get it it rolling this weekend and off of the trailer.

Wife says today when I got home from work that if I want to keep it I can............Whoo Hoo gotta love support from the wife.

Decisions, Decisions Decision..............I guess a lot will depend on the availability of parts

 

Passenger side lugnuts are right hand thread. Driver's side lugnuts are left hand thread. I'm sure you already knew that, but it was a friendly reminder.

 

Thanks Kevin. Even the kidz at Bell tire and Discount tire have made that mistake. Aswk me how I know this:banghead3:

 

Actually I thought you were messing with me because I am a newbie. I had no idea that the threads were opposite on the drivers side. What is that all about???

I tried a good three times to remove the nuts and then gave a good turn to the right and presto, I remembered what you had posted.

Thanks again, What do I need to know about getting the brake drums off....

 

First you have to take the grease cap off, then the wheelpin and nut. If i didnt forgot something, the thing will come off, with the hammer...

 

The thought with the left hand threads on the driver's side is that the rotation of the wheel (moving forward anyway) would always work to tighten the lug nut instead of loosen it.

Here is an article disussing the phenomenon:
http://www.moparmax.com/columns/magnante/v_5-3.html

 

Any chance you have a breakdown diagram of the front brake drum and assembly

 

Life's too short to do that kinda messin' with some one you don't know pretty well Rob and we're all strangers here even tho' we talk. You really need a '65 Chrysler service manual if you're gonna get and stay serious with your new toy. Try Irv Bisco down in Ohio. He's on Evil-bay and probably has the '65 manual and for your purposes a re-pop would be fine. Those brakes are very straight forward. upper and lower springs to hold the shoes, brake cylinder on top, adjuster on the bottom.( should be a little rectangular slot low on the backing plate)...Might still have a rubber plug in it to keep the dirt out. It takes a special tool to work those wheels on the adjusters (maybe $10 at your local parts store) Have them show you a parts rebuild kit and it will make sense to you whats happening in there. BTW, a 2* brass hammer is way better then a ball peen for smacking those brake drums. Now go forth and get after it, Jer

 

Thanks for the advice, You mean i shouldnt be using the 5 pound mini sledge I had in the tool cabinet............brass makes sense and I will have to get one of those. Its been along time since I worked on an older car and have never did a restoration before. It would be great to see this beast on the road again and whether or not I can follow through with it..........well we will just have to see.

Should I be able to get a "newport service maunal or will it be the same as a 65 Imperial?