'66 Ford CS 352 4bbl though it doesn't really matter. Turn the key and it just clicks. One time, well each time you turn it to the start position. I figured it was the starter solenoid clicking and there's just a bad connection somewhere. So, I took the solenoid out of the loop by touching a cable directly from the + post to the starter. nothing. Well I got to listen under the hood when someone else was turning the key. Turns out it was not the starter solenoid making the noise at all, it is this; LINK to picture Looking up the numbers on google, it is an "electric window safety relay". Since I can't get my rear window all the way up, and I can't get it down, I am thinking that this must be denying my car from cranking.... So, how to bypass it? Black wire goes to the starter solenoid, and there is a blue and a red wire that I am not sure where they go. I know it sounds terribly redneck to be looking to bypass a "safety" feature, but I don't plan on taking it anywhere, I just want to get it to turn over for now.
My original solenoid went bad too. The only thing it affected was my rear window. I bypassed the solenoid until I found another one. If memory serves me, the Black wire is hot going to the safety relay. If you connect the hot black to the blue wire you should have power to the rear gate all the time. You will have to use the key at the gate but that should work. I will see if I can look back at my pictures to verify if there was anything I did with the small red wire. I think that red goes to the ignition and the switch in the dash. I will be able to look at my records tomorrow to see for sure how I got it to work and I will let you know. PS the safety relay is very hard to find!
Sounds like you have a bad starter if it didn't turn over when you bypassed the solenoid. Possible not charging/low battery, loose starter circuit connection, bad ground. If the window safety relay being bad keeps the car from starting those Fords have problems, just can't see any car maker putting a device like that in at that time. The neutral safety switch being out of adjustment or bad is the only "safety" device thing that should keep it from starting normally. The relay takes a lot less juice to energize it than the starter circuit and it probably always clicks when the ignition is turned on and you just never noticed it before because the starter isn't making any noise.
I agree with bluevista that the power window safety switch would not likely cause your car not to start. However, I do feel that your safety switch could be keeping your power window from operating. Bypass it and see if you can get the window down with the key in the tailgate.
I guess i knew inside this wouldn't be the problem and so we will go back to it being the starter as before. Just when I read the misleading name, and remembered reading hear about paranoia of people dieing from back windows being open, I put them together.
Assuming a battery with juice it's the starter. It could be stuck brushes, try a hearty smack on the starter motor with current applied.
I will look in my 66 factory service manual later today and see what, if any, relationship there is between these circuits. The part about the relay clicking when the ignition switch is set to start has me intrigued. Offhand, the only thing I can think of is that perhaps the click is a power interrupt when the ignition switch is set to start. Or maybe the connection at the solenoid is just a convenient 12V power source. Also, you should for sure be able to hear the start solenoid when you turn the key to start. However the bypassing of the solenoid to the starter would still work even without the ignition on. Since even that is not apparently working would lead me to the same conclusion that it's the starter. One thing to mention is that I had an issue with no start, and it turned out to just be a bad ground cable connection from the battery. The lights would all come on, but the starter wouldn't turn. If the same thing, jumping across the solenoid wouldn't matter, since the engine/chassis isn't getting a good ground. Since your car had done a lot of sitting outside, I'd think this might be a possibility. However, I'll assume that you would have already gone through all that. Anyway, I'll check out my service manual, and have a look at the power window relay circuit. I'm curious now anyway.
Same thing happened when I tried to start my '66 after six years of storage. Take the starter out, have it rebuilt at a starter/alternator shop, put it back in and your car will start. The brushes are probably bad, and it happens all the time. Banging on the starter may make it work once, but isn't a fix. TG
I think I may have an answer about the power window. From what I can gather from the schematics, the "safety relay" only makes the dash switch inoperative without the ignition switch on. There should still be power to the switch on the tailgate at all times. The entire circuit gets it's power from the positive side of the starter solenoid, where there is a small add-on circuit breaker that the non-power window cars do not have. According to the schematics, on your window relay, the red wire with the elbow connector comes from the large stud on the back of your ignition switch. This is what powers the relay only when the ignition is on. The other elbow connector leads to only the dashboard switch for the tailgate window. My schematics show this wire as black/white stripe up to the junction block and then blue from there. However, since your's appears to be blue, I would guess they made a change that the schemtics don't show. For the double-stacked contacts fastened with a screw, on leads to the circuit breaker on the start solenoid, and ther other eventually leads to the switch in the tailgate. Since this is coupled with the wire from the circuit breaker, this one is powered all the time, so that you obviously open the rear window without the ignition being on. More to follow in next post...
Thanks for the extra comments. I am sure this is the problem. Cooler weather, rain, $ and motivation will probably put this off until spring...
...continuing from last post. You should be able to check the circuit breaker by testing for 12V at the double-stacked contacts. Ignition switch position does not matter. If nothing else is wrong, that should guarantee power to the tailgate switch. If you want to bypass the "safety" relay, route 12V directly to the elbow connector with the blue wire. That should get power directly to the dashboard switch. There is also a limit switch in the tailgate, but I can't tell from the schematic if that is actuated in the up or down position. So you don't fry anything (including yourself), I will try to scan a copy of the schematic for you, and hopefully post it here tonight. Also, I see nothing that is significantly common between the power window circuit and the start circuit, at least not without you seeing other major things not working. This might help you get the car started, but maybe you can get the window working.
Bear in mind that are two types of systems and switches for the '66 power window and tailgate wiring. One requires the ignition switch to be on, the other does not, and there is a different switch on both the dashboard and on the tailgate for each system. Don't ask me why, they both are listed in the Master Parts Cataolg, and I can't answer the question. Get the starter rebuilt and your car will start. TG.
