On my '87 Caprice some of the vinyl was was missing just behind the rear passenger side door. Plus I could see where there was rust bubbling up under the vinyl on the rear fender, so I decided today to remove the "wood". It wasn't as difficult as I thought it might be. A hair dryer and some patience was all that was needed. But now that I have it off I really like the looks of the car better without it. Had I not had to remove it I probably would have left it, nice "classic" look. But without it I think it looks more sporty. And since I plan on making some changes to the car anyway this will work out better. I'd like to remove the roof rack. What can I use to plug the screw holes? I'm only removing the rack not the the chrome strips.
Been there and done all that The fake wood grain only looks good for so long. Mucho glad I peeled mine. Same on the rack, glad it gone. Could just get some of those popper chrome hole plugs they sell. I tried filler a few times, sooner or later a nice round plug of filler pops out. right now they are filled with clear silicone, and painted over. I got some old what ya call it cleats like ya see on the side of a small boat or a 70s truck where ya can wrap rope around it, and the holes for them line up pretty good, thought of putting them on painted black so they blend in, if I ever did carry something, I would have a place to tie off rather then looping stuff through the windows.
YO 350. The word MIG WELDER comes tah mind fur fillin' holez It's ah PITA 'cuz tah do it rite yah gotta drop the headliner if yah don't wanna cook it! BUT IT AIN'T GONNA LEAK NO MO-NO MO, IT AIN'T GONNA LEAK NO-MO
To much work for me to bother, would have to be real careful not to warp the thin flat roof welding and griding it. If Im to lazy to change the bent bumper n fender, Im not gonna spend the time making the roof perferct or half azz it and have it all warpped. If one had access to a tig and went slow, it might be an easy job.
Yah might consider Popping for that fix 350x. I've got ah guy 7 miles from me that'll make house calls and will do the deed for $100 and he's an artist. I took him a B&M deep aluminum trans pan that I'd cut 2"s out of the middle horizontally. (WHEN I INSTALLED IT IN STOCK FORM IT WAZ WAAAY LOWER THEN THE CROSS MEMBER, NOT GOOD!) When I got it back it had a bead run inside an outside that the pictures of should be in "HOW TO" welding books! BTW, He made a house call and filled SIX dime size holes in the Batwagon roof where once ah roof rack waz anchored too. NO WARPING, NO NOTHIN'! I just ground 'um down a little (with a cold wet rag standin' by), skin coated, primed, and squirted paint. None of us own all the toyz or haz all the talants! My .02 cents. Happy Trails, Jer
Grind off the threaded fasteners if any are still in the roof. Tap the holes down a little with a pick hammer and grind paint off area. Fill, smooth and paint. Never fill over a hole without countersinking it first.
If I had a spare $100 id buy new rear spring then wait for a deal. The wagon may look and drive nice but is beyond spending any money like that as of yet. If it wasn't for the full frame it would of cracked in two by now. Very little floors left, most of the cowl is rotted out, door jam that is only a thin layer of paint, right rear a pillar like swiss cheese that only looks solid from a layer of aluminum body tape. To spend $100 to fill 8 non rust holes in the roof would be a waste of cash. Now engine and drive train wise, sky's the limit as it can be moved. Now if I won the lotto id pay/make someone do a ground up as they bitched n moaned daily/hourly that a body swap would be easier, but I would not let them, even if they rebuilt the entire body by hand, Im rich B****. until that happens, Ill drive it till the wheels fall off. Then put them on something else
I would use a set screw and JB Weld them in place. Countersink the a half turn and let the JB set up little bondo and some spot painting and you are good to go.
