Interior Mustang Mods

I should've searched first.

Couple good info sources:

This guy has done extensive repairs on a bike fairing:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement

This thread has several good tips on fixing plastics, expecially ABS, which is what this gauge frame is made off. I like the tip of making shavings with a drill and mixing it with acetone to make the cement/filler.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabrication/93247-best-adhesive-bonding-abs-abs.html

 

I'm really disappointed at how vague so many Fox-bodied folks are about connecting up a voltmeter in a pre-1987 Fox. Mustang and Capri, and all the other makes since 1978.

One guy on the Ford Trucks Enthusiasts site did a decent job of coaching another member about the alternative places, but never really 'nailed' it.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/916470-voltmeter-gauge-question.html

Even the big Gauge brands don't 'nail' it. If you read that thread, you'll get an idea of how your voltmeter readings (dash-mounted) can be inaccurate. I woke up this morning, after dissecting the Capri manuals, The Ford EVTM for 1979 and 1981, and the ones I downloaded from Four-Eyed Pride and other sites. Then I read the 'diagnosing notes' in the 1981 Fairmont EVTM. Black/Green Hash and Red/Yellow Hash are used to test the ignition connection for Run/Accessory circuit. The Red/Yellow is where I had it before. That circuit is always hot. All the lights run off it too.

I think part of my previously battery discharge problem (8 starts and recharge the battery) was because I had it on the wrong side of the Ammeter. In fact, I had it on the Key Off side - slow discharge - 3 or 4 days.

On older Fords, you just connected to the Run/Accessory wire off the ignition. There's no clear alternative on the Foxes. There is a Run/Accessory circuit coming off the ignition connector. In fact, there's two! On the same prong. One goes to the instrument panel - the smaller 16 gauge wire (Black/Green Hash), and is a special Resistor wire that clearly says to Not Cut in green letters.

The larger Black/Green Hash wire is the right one. As I was saying I woke up thinking what things work when I turn the key to ACCY or RUN - Seatbelt warning, Radio, Heater fan, etc., etc. If you connect to one of the downstream devices, you could miss the load from the other devices.

That circuit is valid for all Foxes from 1978 to 1986. In 1987, Mustangs without Turbos got a Blk/Lt Blu Hash circuit for the Voltmeter or the Turbo Boost switching system. If you had Turbo, you didn't get a voltmeter. I wanted both, so I figure this effort is worth it.

The other wire (GRND) is BLACK with an eyelet screwed to the body behind the LH kickpanel.

I did a slick job of mounting it and took pics, but I'm pooped out. I researched this until 2:00 AM, last nite and got back at it at 6:30 AM. Finally 'NAILED IT' at 3:00 PM this afternoon and did the wiring properly in the main harness.

If you decide to wire in a voltmeter on a pre-1987 Fox bodied wagon, you can access it at connectors on the Shaker Brace that runs to the A-pillar, from the steering column bracket. The 8 wire Gray connector that runs to the engine compartment, has the larger BLK/GRN Hash wire in it.

The connector numbers differ between models and years, so it doesn't matter. I took the lead from the harness that runs from the ignition connector, about 9 inches back from the connector at the key. The wire scraps I had were too short, so I used a BLK/PNK hash wire, soldered to the BLK/GRN-H, and common eyelet connector for the gauge connection.

 

I just read all that. Now my brain hurts, thanks Norm.

 

http://books.google.ca/books?id=OiB...&resnum=1&ved=0CDYQ6wEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false

Everything I know about ammeter circuits in on this page, more or less.
It sort of scared me off running one, since it says you have run a couple high power lines from the battery to the dash.

 

On ours, its the big yellow, the grey/yellow, the brown/orange. They feed to everything. They aren't high-powered, but they can take every amperage demand in the car, except that the fuses and fuse links would fry first.

Ammeters are a pain, without a shunt resistance, and they can cost a bit more. Voltmeters run in parallel with the power demand, where ammeters run in series. Your big Alternator would need a higher than normal Ammeter, but any voltmeter will do nicely.

 

Yesterday's pics.

The 3 RH holes were for the original Ford Air vent control, if the car wasn't AC equipped. I used 2 of those and drilled another for the LH side, then I used Ford screw clips to use normal hardware found around the dash (don't have to crawl out and get 5 other tools to take it off.)


Here she sits:


Notice that new, improved blade-fuse panel. Even it mounts to the shaker brace - less breaking and cracking.

 

Since you posted those fine pictures it reminds me of a story of my early ownership of my Cooga.

See how your headlight know is rotated to the left? Well, on my car it's only that far left when I turn on the interior lights. With the seat all the way back, if I'm not careful, my knee will actually rub on the headlight knob and turn on the interior lights when I get in the car. There were at least 4 instances when I went out in the morning and had a dead battery. I've learned to check that I haven't accidentally turned on the interior lights when getting in the car and not notice that they are on. On the 92 tbird the switch is up high but if it wasn't there are 7 light bulbs that will come on in the interior. That would kill the battery quite fast.:banghead3: It has two coutesy lights on the rear sail panels, one or three depending on whether the map lights are switched on the overhead light, two foot well lights not to mention the key hole lights on the exterior that come on for 30 seconds.

 

I've knicked that switch a couple times too. Usually came back in time to shut it down and start the car up. I'm more careful now.

Should get the rest installed and the interior, MOSTLY back together. I still have to:

1) Refinish the new tailgate - but I can still drive her.
2) Install and seal my tailgate glass and seal it up - just got the sealant
3) Reinstall the cargo headliner after the wires for the deicer glass and back up lights and rear wiper motor are in.
4) Change the windshield - just got the new sealant (echo...)
5) Figure out how to direct rear speakers toward the front:
a) so that cargo won't hit them (no more wild and wooly material heaving)
b) so that people won't hit them (tougher to design that out)
c) so we can enjoy the mellow tones.
6) Touch up some nicks in the paint
7) Wash her and preen her up.

Tune up is sort of a given.

 

Just in time for WINTER!

 

Oh, you're cruel.

Nah. I'll be driving this weekend, and have most of the list knocked off. It's pretty nice here throughout October, sometimes past November 15th. Rarely, but with all this summer rain, it might just be cooler until late December.

The Tailgate resto is the slowest part, at least 2 coats per day, and 10 hours to dry each one. 6 coats should do it. Mostly spraybomb this time. Upper frame inside and out. Carpet cover on the inside, woodgrain on the outside.

 

I'm waiting and relishing the onset of winter. We have two seasons interupted by nice weather on both ends. We have HOT season, COOL season and two weeks of FANTASTIC weather twice per year. Some refer to it as spring and fall. Every couple of years or so these two real short seasons were called WINDY seasons.

During this years inbetween short season it was gorgeous and I got the truck painted in the nick of time and I was able to do easily 3 coats per day. Since I did two tone sometimes the gray would be three coats and or the white would be three coats. In any case it took 9 days. We went from 80* to 105* in one day. But even I will admit we've had much more 90* weather and 100+* weather all summer.

 

At least the Gate is small enough to handle that I can bring it inside to dry. Might start that on Saturday or Sunday. Nights are pretty humid, and I took the tarp down to let the wind and sun dry up the moss that was starting around the car. Its been wet here. Way too much. 118 mm this month, and we're not done.

http://weatherstation.uwinnipeg.ca/

 

The new windshield is in, thanks to Andy's help.

Pulled out the other tailgate from another 1979 that I scooped last fall for $50. The guy siliconed a 1/4" thick Plexiglass replacement, some years ago, and I gotta say that Silicone sucks for sealing a 'glass' in a closed frame. And what a PITA to get it off!

Anyway, even though we were running into over 110 F, and 50 MPH winds, I got it cleaned up and primed (Canadian Rustoleum - Tremclad primer.)

Might rain in the PM tomorrow, so I'll get some patching done and lay another primer coat on it tomorrow and maybe, a coat of my Tremclad Chestnut colour.

I can't find my woodgrain leftover piece, with all the packed stuff for the Renos, but Andy suggested that a chunk of chipboard might be a hit! We're still friends.

 

My tailgate is distorted at the top of the frame. When I did it, I used 1978 Ford Shop manuals. I just read my 1979 Shop manuals. Removal is 4 short lines, Installation is one -Reverse. Piece of cake too. You simply remove the air cylinders, after disconnecting the harnesses (heated backlite, wiper, backup lite and license plate light, requiring pulling down the rear headliner, close it and remove the 2 hinge nuts.

I had the gate resting on 2X4s, open, working upside down and the wind caught it.

RTFM Normie!

Anyway, the new tailgate needs a new bottom edge lip, and mine has one.

Should work out real nice.

 

Well of course everyone knows the correct procedure for distorting the tailgate was updated in the '79 manual!
I think they put it in that appendix in the later Chitlins....