I was lucky with my headliner hoops, because the color codes hadn't turned to dust in 28 years of hot climate. But this article might be of some use to you: http://www.upholster.com/auto/headliners-installation.html http://www.autorestorer.com/articles/art121.html and more good resto articles on the same site: http://www.autorestorer.com/articles.html And for the Roof rack (includes parts sources): http://www.tek-ed.com/tek-ed/rrack.html DON'T try to get to the guy's home page! He's a site programmer with poor Java coding. When I tried, it locked up the browser (IE7) on XP-Pro with all updates. I mean locked up - I had to CNTRL-ALT-DEL to get out and reboot! His other pages have demos of his Website jobs and a few pages to his family's various Wagoneer Jeeps. And if you can't find original Ford engine compartment warning labels, this place has some you can download, tweak and print - Many of these are perennial and date way back to the 60's: http://www.shelbyparts.com/parts/labels.html
yano...the one problem to 'starting' a project...is that .. ..at some point you have to finish!!! ...thats why i try not to start cant wait to see it!!!...luv that car!!
I'm just trying to spin your notoriety. How many sites can brag that a few members are Fleet collectors?! Roadking, he recently got the Pinto, and I think he said that made it 11 wagons and he's got a few other models that look like hardtops and sedans. He's the Go To Ford man.
well i got a real thin seal spoon (aircraft tool) basically a really thin spreader and carefully pry it off little at a time,,,its really good but something thin to slide in between the gutter and the trim and slowley pry off works good
The 67's are my favorite! Followed closely by the 68's. I can't wait to see how this progresses. Thanks for the photo tour....
I always enjoyed following other restorations with pics. I promise to keep posting new pics as we move along. Update on a parts find: I struck gold and found a mint re-chromed rear bumper for the car as well as a solid used tailgate. My tailgate is rusted almost beyond repair. I did find a complete 3rd seat option but its just under $500 and I am not sure if I am going to get that or not. I would love to have the facing seats in the back. That is what makes the wagon! I have decided to go with non OEM seat covers from http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/ although I will still use the original color saddle. I just cannot justify trying to buy the original fabric and having the covers made. They are tough to find prefab since they are not the same as the Galaxie cars. We are going to use Saddle and I will repaint/dye the door panels and trim to their original color. I also am looking to use them to make a headliner for me too. I may go with a lighter carpet than the original dark brown. The exterior is going to be the original Burnt Amber, with the 67 woodgrain down the sides. I am still thinking of painting the faux trim to make it look like wood. If not I will paint it off white or whatever the color was originally. As far as those now famous wheels, they are staying on until the car is done. I have a lot of other fires to put out during this process so those my be the last thing I find.
Information Overload!!! I ran and owned some furniture and upholstery firms, and did a couple of my cars years ago. When I got to this one, it had been like 22 years before when I'd done any of this, so I decided to start again, like I knew ZIP. Even today's modern methods are really different - Heat sealing vinyl accent moldings was just barely coming into its own. Your's probably has real chrome parts with pins to hold them onto the door panels, my 1979 has them heat embedded into the vinyl. So forgive me if I overload you with info, but it might be of value to you and others. Here goes. Rubber Renue (their spelling), safe on vinyl too. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/408a.html Other Interior vendors for Classics: http://www.originalauto.com/ http://www.dispecialty.com/h.html http://www.stockinteriors.com/Default.asp Tools: The main tool (I kick myself for having this link and not buying the darn thing, pliers just don't cut it) http://www.upholstery-supplies-guide.com/hog-ring-pliers.html Your carpet with likely come with the Jute layer, but the floorboards need a sound deadener, especially at the cargo area. Here's a comparison of the best brands: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Here's a few vendors/Mfrs. (I used Evercoats) http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html http://www.quietride.com/acoustishield/articles/how-to-be-cool-and-quiet-too.htm Don't know how far you're going into detail restoration, but these might be interesting: http://www.specialtychromedplastics.com/ http://www.cvvacuumplaters.com/ This Auzzie company restores dashes and they have a US office: http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/index.htm http://www.dashboardrestorations.com/ Good tips sites on Upholstery/Headliner issues: http://www.carrscorner.com/yabbse/index.php Other trim refinishing/dyeing line (I used the SEM Saddle, but I found this after) http://colorbondtuner.com/index.html?PHPSESSID=6659087903603b6b375aa94f59a3ef63 Sem's site also has improved their products since I bought mine in this Spring - They may have a line that works better on some detail items. I used a satin clear coat on high-wear mouldings: http://www.sem.ws/index.php You'll like this site if only for the pictures of more classics, but they have the fabrics and vinyls: http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ Hood Liner source and How Tos: http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/hoodliner.htm Tearmender (excellent and cheap), I got mine from a camping retailer: http://www.tearmender.com/ The only caution about the SEMS vinyl dye is that it goes on in very thin coats. It flashes in seconds, so you can standby. Don't do big areas in one sweep (1 sq ft is enough). Secondly, shake well before using. If not, you'll get like a ROXOTONE mottled spray. It smells like a degreaser cleaner, and can be noxious to sensitive folks, so do it in the garage or backyard, outside of sunlight, until its dry. And you can use it on carpets, but the fibres will stiffen a bit. It comes out darker than the vinyl application areas, but it does look sharp and matches well. On fabrics, I think another product could be used or they'll likely be 'rough' textured until they get rubbed a bit. Also, finding D-Rings can be a real bear, unless you can find a good shop to sell you about 150 or so. They aren't expensive, just hard to find.
What are D-rings??? Do you mean hog rings? Thanks so much for all the links, that is info overload, which is what I need.
I do mean hog rings, but up here they call them D-Rings or Fencing Staples (barbed wire). Glad to help.
One more thing on the hog-rings. I said about 150, but if your adding rear rumble seats, make it 200. They can't be more than $10 to $15 dollars. I've seen them here at $5.00 per 100. The Fence Staples come in Galvanized or not. The metallurgical problem with galvanized wire is that it loses its tensile strength. Since they'll be rubbing and scraping on steel frames, they won't last. You're better off getting some with the alodined finish or soaking untreated ones in a small bowl of Por15's Metal-Ready for 10 minutes, rinse them off in water and they're ready to use. Most bodyshop supply shops. http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2 I say that because a lot shops don't like selling to a DIYer. So with the alternative, that may work better.