While I love learning a new skill for the future, if this is a truly difficult to source part you are likely better off taking it to a quality starter rebuild shop. They can likely have it rebuilt and fixed in less than a day with no aggravation on your part.
Boy! I'm glad I didn't read any of that before I repaired the remote to Caleb's RC car. I would have had an anxiety attack! I just plugged the ol' iron in, waited for it to get good and hot and then went to work making the repair. I learned to solder in Middle school. I can't even remember who it was that first showed me how. I don't remember any of that stuff that you mentioned Andrew. It still seems to be working, so I guess I did alright. Next time though I should probably follow those steps.
*astonished* You let the smoke out? Admit it, you did! No shame in it, we've all done it. Hell, I blew up paper capacitors in a voltage tripler circuit once, in BE/E school; somebody said I got a 'ticker-tape parade' for my foul-up!
That's how a professional does it. The acid in the flux of the solder core will eventually damage the joint so it is good practice to strip and clean everything before and after for a good long-term adhesion. You can solder it just fine without any of those steps, but for military or professional grade solder jobs they have a number of steps like that to be adhered to.
HEY MODEL T!!!! Andrew, my lack of solder experience prevents me from even understanding what “smoke out” means in reference to soldering of course. In high school I did a lot of “smoking out” but that’s for a different forum I think. I took the piece to a shop and told the guy that I had a solder gun and could that have been used for this application. He just laughed, shook his head and went to the back. He returned about 7 minutes later warning me it was still hot and told me the work was free of charge! So that was good. So starter is in the car. Now I’ve got to order a new ignition coil. It was getting power and the ohms were good. After further inspection the inside was corroded and while cleaning OIL began dripping out. Didn’t know these things had oil sealed in there!
The oil is a dielectric for the high voltage isolation. The coil windings inside would short out without the oil in them. The oil actually gets hot and expands, and if you turn it upside down and oil comes out that's not a good thing. You might get away with running it as-is by leaving it in an upright position, providing too much oil hasn't already seeped out.
Yup, go find another. I'm not even sure anyone rebuilds these. It should be a common Delco part, just Google "obsolete delco ignition coil," and you should be able to find a suitable replacement.
Yeah I think I can get one for under $30 easily. I’ve got to compile a list here because I also need to do something with the plug wires. I notice a couple cracked boots. I have an extra set but haven’t given Any of them a real thorough inspection. Also on the AACA forum someone suggested to go ahead and get another condenser which reminded me I haven’t Even looked under the distributor cap. I’ve got to do a little research and then try and persuade the treasury department to give me more funding.
You'll find condensors are pretty cheap, although I wouldn't throw out your old one. I understand the new condensors aren't that good, so if your old one is still good, it may be better than the new ones.
I miss all of these detailed helpful hints. I was just thinkin, ole Grizz still hasn't jumped off the ledge. Maybe I should come down there and give him a helpful push! I sort of remember back when a guy could go grab a starter, coil, or other part for two bucks at a place called a junk yard. I've been off here way too long!