Roller Paint Job Diary

Discussion in 'Station Wagon Projects' started by Stormin' Norman, Jun 2, 2007.

  1. OldFox

    OldFox Curmudgeon

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    It almost looks like the previous owner worked at or lived near some type of chemical plant, foundry, or refinery. The reddish coloration is indicative of that. Hard to tell from the detail of the pictures.
     
  2. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    That reddish stuff is the primer. The area where the car came from is agricultural, and also prone to a lot of hail, every mid-summer, so it might have had hail damage, and a cheapo paint job. Almost looks like somebody spilled acetone on it and it crinkled. Anyway, I'll get down to metal and start from scratch. Thanks for lookin' in.
     
  3. HandyAndy

    HandyAndy Well-Known Member

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    Put saran wrap over top of the freshly applied stripper to make it way more effective.
     
  4. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Now there's a good tip! Thanks. I used to do that with my WATER/VINEGAR/SALT soak for rusty parts, never occurred to me with the paint stripper. :thumbs2:
     
  5. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    Good tip. I remember reading that long ago.:yahoo:
     
  6. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    USPS confirmed that they are set for pickup tomorrow from that Muggyweld MFR, for welding up the bumpers. That's fast service. No wonder our postal service is losing money. They define SNAIL MAIL, here.


    They have a video using their silver solder kit to weld up cast iron, stainless header tubing to exhaust flanges, and even stainless/aluminum alloy window trim. Well, I was going to use 1/2" aluminum to cut my tri-power intake manifold and machine it to bolt to the integral cast iron manifold, which would weaken the cast iron manifold, but after seeing what their products can do, I'd rather weld it together.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2014
  7. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    This portable garage was just like mini-bricks. Good instructions, and diagrams, and fitment. Over 150 bolts, and at least 75 pieces of tubing. And made in the US of A too! (y)

    http://www.shelterlogic.com/Default.aspx

    Just have to install the cover and square it up. Took about 11 hours to get to this:


    That's HandyAndy's new Bus Engine lift and stand in one of the pics :dancing:. I have to pull the Zephyr engine, to cut the spot welds, and lift mine to install the new 4 speed standard transmission. Might as well redo the engine bay, while I'm at it.

    PortGarage1.jpg

    PortGarage2.jpg

    PortGarage3.jpg

    PortGarage4.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2014
  8. HandyAndy

    HandyAndy Well-Known Member

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    Was that a Canadian Tire item?

    I have to find that engine leveling doodad.
     
  9. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    The engine lift doodad??? Maybe, way back when Noah was building the Ark... :rofl2: I just moved it in front of the Zephyr. That is one heavy beast.

    The engine levelling doodad can be had at Canadian Tire, Tooltown or Princess Auto.

    http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-engine-leveler-1500-lbs-0091089p.html

    http://www.tooltown.ca/ROK-1650lb-Load-Leveller.html

    http://www.tooltown.ca/Accessories-c-1239/

    http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Repair-Equipment/1500-lb-Engine-Leveller/1580009.p

    Seems to be all the same price.
     
  10. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I didn't see the engine leveling doodad. I did see an engine stand and what we call a "cherry picker" to remove engines. The doodad hangs from the hook on the end to slide and level the engine.
    I found mine was too awkward so never use it. We just hook the chains where the engines stay fairly level. Altho all we've removed are SBC engines and one Ford four in a Ranger.
    What's that carport gonna have for sides and top? Looks like a nice size.(y)
     
  11. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    These 200 CID sixes come with engine lift brackets on either side of the head, front and back. But they have to be tilted if the transmission is connected. So the doodad comes in real handy. :D

    Its 10' Wide, 20'' long, and 8' high at the peak. More like 6' 4" at the wall.

    Yeah, a fully enclosed back (on the North end (predominant winds) and a zippered door at the other, but I got the roll-up door option. Don't want flaps hittin' me, when my hands are full.:yup:

    It came with 4 short augers, and I bought the package of 6 longer ones. Just spent the morning putting them all in. Got the back panel in and doing the door panel, then the roof. My fingers cramped up, so I came in from our 80F sunshine (28C) to cool down for 10 minutes. The sun is running at a strength of 7 out of 10. Microwave! :taz:

    Its a nice light sandy color, so it should reflect the sun's rays very well.:thumbs2:
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2014
  12. HandyAndy

    HandyAndy Well-Known Member

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    I have one, I have to find it. :90:
     
  13. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    Oh! :rofl2:
     
  14. Stormin' Norman

    Stormin' Norman Well-Known Member

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    I got it covered! 30 MPH winds fighting me all the way, but I won!

    CAT, they make a 12 foot wide unit too. For a car with long doors, that's what you'd need. What a difference! The sun took us to 29 C, almost 83 F, and the garage was much cooler inside. Nice. :thumbs2:
     
  15. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I have two 10X20 pole type with vinyl tops side by side. Would like the metal with sides. My truck doors open outside the open sides. Even those are cooler and keep a lot of yeller stuff off.
     

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