Yesterday I went to start my car, it'd start and then die. I finally got it to idle long enough to get it in gear. Whenever it wasn't getting gas it would die, whether stopped or in motion. It does drive so long as the accelerator is being pressed, fortunately almost all my driving is highway. I called my mechanic, he's too busy to get it in soon but said it sounded like the throttle sensor or something I can't remember, camshaft sensor maybe? It's the Buick 3.3 and has just about 105k on it now. Anyone know where these sensors might be located?
Sounds like either the throttle position sensor or the Idle Air Control. This might be helpful: http://www.buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5982
TPS and IACV should both be located on the throttle body. Sometimes the IACV's get all carbon'd up and stick. Although in my experience (mostly Ford) they usually stick high. You can try to take it off and clean it up inside. You can back probe the connectors on the TPS with a volt meter to make sure you get a steady voltage sweep as you manually manipulate the throttle. You'll probably have to play around a bit to figure out which wires you need to probe.
Thanks guys those are the two things the mechanic mentioned. Both parts are on the pricey side, especially the IACV, so I'd want to determine which before replacing if need be.
I pulled off the IACV, it looks clean as a whistle. This here is EXACTLY why I want to get a classic car.
It's 20+ years old. Things break. I'm not completely familiar with how GM did their IAC valves so they could be different from how Ford's operate. Did you get a chance to put a voltmeter on the TPS? My money is still on the IAC.
When back probing the TPS you should have a 5.0V reference signal into it and a variable voltage out. Check it with the key on/engine off. In idle position you want to see about .45V and at WOT, about 4.5V. If you can start the car and get it to idle and drive by manipulating the throttle pedal, it's bound to be either TPS or IAC related. The cam and crank sensors set up the sequential fuel delivery and spark timing. My '87 GN has similar hardware so I'm familiar with it. TPS testing article.
I'm aware of that. It's the fact that tiny electrical componants can disable a vehicle, and a plastic gizmo that would fit in the palm of your hand costs $50 to $80. I don't have a voltmeter. I'm a right fair mechanic if it involves wrenches or sockets, anything electrical and I am useless.
I do tend to piss and moan, when it's a small matter and I've driven the car since October with no issues til now.
Sorry, I just get annoyed sometimes when people act like cars never broke down before 1975. Regardless, I am no electrical wizard either, but even a cheapy multimeter can be quite handy. Autozone has one for $15: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...26lr?itemIdentifier=449322&_requestid=3495987 Are you getting a check engine light at all (make sure the check engine light actually works too, it should come on when you turn the key to "on")?
It works and it hasn't come on. My brother swears it'll be the PCV valve, which is a cheap easy fix. Certainly the philosophy with these things is to start out with the cheapest and easiest solution.
