That a almost new 2002 Ford Focus has given me more trouble than my 1981 Mercury Zephyr? Why is that I can drive the Vista Cruiser and not have to worry about it craping out? Why is it that I can depend on cars that are 30+ years old and not one that is barely 10? I just don't get it. The Focus ran fine earlier in the day, did a few errands, came back home. Decided to go get dinner, ran fine going there. Then when it comes time to leave, it idles kinda funny. 1K to 600 then to 800. Rev the engine, does the same thing after letting off the throttle. Then into reverse I go and it dies. Just sits and cranks. Had it towed home. I'll mess with it either tomorrow or Wednesday. But for now the Cruiser is on driver status!! I hate new cars, I really do. Oh well. One step forward two steps back. :banghead3:
Sounds to me like dirty injectors. I would run some injector cleaner through the system for a few tanks of gas. Also, make sure that where you buy your gas, it is always fresh, and that you haven't picked up a load of water with the fuel. The ethanol in the gas will take care of some water, but it can overpower even the ethanol if there is a lot of it..
Sounds like typical newer computerized car issues. Ask KevinVarnes, he says he can usually diagnose a car without even needing it plugged in to a diagnostic machine, he must be really good.
I did just that. I put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in it when I filled up on Saturday. Also where I buy gas at, is a pretty popular place so I don't think its bad gas. Plus I've bought it there countless times and have had no issues. I even plugged it into my OBDII reader!!
i had a 2002 focus hatch back. 100k miles in 3 years. never missed a beat. everyone i know has had really good luck with the focus. that said, it sounds like a throttle position sensor. IIRC not an expesive or time consuming repair.
Could be a dirty IAC or a TPS going bad. Remove the IAC and clean it. Also it is 9 years old. How are the spark plug wires? Also the OBDII reader can tell you if a COP is bad. Always when there are idle problems clean the IAC and MAF first. For the MAF get MAF cleaner and don't touch the very thin wire.
I'm thinking it's a fuel issue. Can you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you turn the key to ON? Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Any possibility somebody put something in your tank? This is where a fuel pressure tester would come in handy.
I think it's a sensor issue. A pre-sensor car will run even when something is off a little or a lot. But a car with a bad sensor gives the computer bad information and changes the mixture so much to compensate that it will sometimes no longer run. While some cars have a "limp home" mode... there are some sensors that are required to be in place or the car NORUN! Example: a bad O2 sensor will make it run badly but won't leave you stranded. But a bad MAP sensor or fuel pressure sensor will never allow the car to start.
Just went out to see if it would start from it sitting over night. After it cranked for a few seconds it started. But ran really rough, almost like its starving for fuel. I'm just going to go with a process of elimination, starting with the easiest and most obvious first. I'll check out all the sensors and see what's up. Thanks for all the tips guys!
One of the easiest things is to check fuel pressure. If you don't have a gage you should be able to borrow one from an autoparts store. Then get to cleaning. A lot of times only a little money needs to be spent on cleaning materials. Do not clean the MAF with anything else but MAF cleaner. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner can damage the sensor. If the fuel pressure is low you may need a new pump and filter. I'm sure the pump is in the tank.
This is one of the big problems with modern computerized 'engine management systems'. The engines have so much additional wiring and add-on gizmos that an owner is left completely puzzled but the source of the problem. In the past you could directly trace the problem. If 77Vista's wagon was say a '65 Fairlane, you might assume it's carb-related. But not now - look at all the different suggestions we're getting - and it could be any of them - or none!
What you say is true to some extent, KK. But, plugging in the correct testing unit should find the problem. That's one of the things I do like about the new stuff. I'm old school and everyone knows it. But I bought an OBDII car and have rather enjoyed learning how this new stuff works off the PCM.
Check the Crankshaft sensor, I sold 12 last year for the SOHC and 9 for the DOHC seems to be an issue with those. On the TPS I only sold 2 all year. I'm an odds man, so maybe a crank sensor.
That is good and very interesting information! With that info in mind....I guess I would play those odds.
