1973 Torino Tribute Restoration

I was reading your note in my email last night, and we'd just bought the movie Gran Torino with Clint. You done good. She's a beauty.:2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

Thank you very much Guys! The A/C will be goin back on at some point, but since the bill was getting bigger and bigger I had to make cut backs. The temporary fix on the dash cluster was installing oil, water, volt gauges, but I've been looking around for a good used gauge cluster. Again, it will have to be a lil later when I get a lil extra money. But for now the next thing is getting the tags so we can start putting some miles on her.

 

GPD, that is nothing short of amazing. You have done such an incredible job. What a beautiful wagon. When you first mentioned you were going to transform it, I kind of thought why? Eventhough your Dad had one like it, the Squire would be so nice to have it minted out, but now, looking at the finished product, you absolutely did the right thing. Clearly you had a vision in your mind's eye and that's what kept you going. Absolutely gorgeous Torino. Congratulations. A job well done, my friend.

 

Nice job, looks great. Hope you and the family get lots of nice weather to enjoy it a bit this year.

I have a Torino question for you. Do you know, does a 74 Torino grille look like the 73 or the 75 Grille, or does it depend on the trim level?

 

Thanks for the well wishes Guys!

Doc, the 73-74 base model Torino have the same grill, which is the grill I have on my wagon. The 74-76 Gran Torino grills are the one that the Starsky and Hutch cars have. The 72 Torino is a one year only grill and a 72 Gran Torino is also a one year only grill.

Try searching each model via Google images and you'll see the difference. Hope this helps!

 

Tailgate window motor

Hey guys, I was thinking about tackling the back tailgate window this weekend. Besides checking the fuse, and making sure there is power to the power motor, is there a way to check the actual switch itself?

I looked in the Owner's manual and it says that you can lower and raise the tailgate window via the key lock on the tailgate itself or the switch on the dash, but neither are working right now.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. :2_thumbs_up_-_anima

 

Assuming you already checked the fuse and there is power at the wire from the fuse to the dash switch the best course of action is to start at the back and work forward or keep going from the front to back.

1. Is there 12V to the motor for the window? Yes/No
if yes fix the motor
if no check for 12V to the switch.

2. Is there 12V to the switch? Yes/No
if yes fix or replace the switch on the tailgate
if no go to the dash

3. Is there 12V out from the dash switch? Yes/No
if yes you'll have to uncover all the wireing from the dash switch all the way back to the tailgate.
if no, check for 12V to the switch.

4. Is there 12V to the dash switch? Yes/No.
if no is there power to the fuse? Could be the wire between the fuse and the dash switch is broken.
if yes then repair or replace the dash switch.

If 1-4 doesn't do the trick then :confused:

I like to start at the back simply because those motors are exposed to a lot of dirt and moisture over the years. But either back to front or front to back will work.

 

Thanks for the information Tbird. I checked the fuses and a couple are blown. That may be why I don't have instrument panel lights either, but then again my OIL light wasn't working and it wasn't a fuse so I figure I have a few headaches ahead of me. I'll stop by the Auto Parts store and get some fuses tomorrow and play around with it this weekend. Thanks again!

 

Geez, I have been driving my wagon more than actually working on the rest of the details that need attention.

I changed the fuse to the tailgate motor and when I hit the switch it blows the fuse. From what I have read I think I need a new motor. That fuse is a 25A fuse.

Yahoo excerpt: " If a fuse blows in a motor circuit (heater blower motor, cooling fan motor, power seat or window, electric fuel pump, etc.), it often indicates a shorted motor. If a fuse in a light circuit blows, look for wiring or connector shorts."

So I'm gonna get a new motor and hopefully that will fix my problem.

 

You can ohm out the motor and see if its shorted.

 

Esplain please! For us ninny's with a multitester but limited know how.

 

I was thinking the same thing!

My multimeter knowledge is, I hate to say, is from youtube videos or internet searches.

If anyone can explain "we" would appreciate it.

Thanks guys!

 

First the basics...I(current)=V(voltage)/(R)resistance. If you are blowing a 25 amp fuse...than if its the motor shorted, your motor resistance would have to be about 0.5 Ohms. I=12V/0.5Ohms=24amps.

So basically set the meter to the "Ohm" setting(omega symbol)...if you have Ohm ranges available....just start on the low end 0-5 Ohms or so and work yoiur way up until you have a resistance value. Just connect each mm lead to each of the terminals on the motor.

We're probably looking for something in the 2-10 Ohm range.

 

There should also be a tin can Relay in the circuit, probably under the rearwheel inside trim panel or near the fuse box. Its grounding out from the switch to the fuse, but the relay is in between the two. The plastic relays came out in 1980-ish models.

 

Still trying...

Hey Norm, I was doing a lil reading last night in my shop manuals and discovered the circuit breaker is on the starter relay (solenoid). I'm gonna swing by the auto parts store and get a new 20 amp circuit breaker, positive battery cable, solenoid, and some wire conduct to make those pieces look nice. My mechanic, in order to save a few bucks, re-used anything that still worked so he never changed these pieces out. I'll keep you guys posted if this fixes my tailgate issue. :2_thumbs_up_-_anima