Caprice Rear door and transmission trouble

Hello!

I own a 1987 Caprice SW, and I have a few issues with it... First, the rear door :
The "pull it down" thing dosen't work anymor... I can open it the normal way, but the inside handle dosen't seem to work anymore...
Also, is there a way to adjust the hinges?
And is there a way to adjust the "sensor" (for the light)? Because unless you slam the door really really hard, the light will stay on a drain my batterie...

Another thing is the transmission... It shifts up too early, and shifts down too late, so when driving in a city in traffic, sometimes the car stalls...

If anybody had any ideas about these, thanks in advane!

 

So the rear door is fixed... I still have a problem with the light, but I guess I'll keep slaming the door.

Transmission, anybody?

 

I haven't owned a Chevy since University (some decades ago...) but until the GM experts chime in, this might help:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp

 

I don't know or necessarily understand your drivetrain configuration. It may make a difference as to how the transmission is controlled. If it's carburated it could be vacuum controlled there will be a modulator on the transmission with a vacuum tube and hose that connects to the rear of the carburator. Check for leaks and repair. The modulator can be faulty as well. This also may be true if it's fuel injected from a central throttle body fuel injection that looks similar to a carburator.

Or, it could be electronically controlled. There may be a separate controller from the engine electronic control.

I am not very familiar with GM products. Either way you really need a factory drivetrain manual. While you looking you should consider a chassis manual as well as they are very good about troubleshooting and repair of the body and chassis as well as electrical things as well. They are generally available on ebay.

The mid 80's to the early 90's was a transition period where American autos became more electronically controlled vs mechanically controlled to to ever increasing emissions standards. Thus there were mixtures of mechanical and electronic controls systems for a while during that time.

 

Your rear tailgate needs adjusting. Check the pins one or both maybe worn out. What kind of trans do you have?

 

If you have a TH200 or 350 you should adjust the trottle valve detent cable. It controls line pressure,shift points, shift feel and downshifts. That cable goes from the carb to the control valve on your trans.
It can be easily adjusted and the general procedure is like this (from Chilton):
Stop the engine
Locate the tv cable adjuster near the carb
Depress and hold down the metal tab of the tv cable adjuster
Move the slider until it stops against the fitting
Release the adjuster tab
Turn the carb lever to the full trottle stop position and release it

By doing that the tv cable will automatically adjust itself.

If you have trouble doing this, please tell me the transmission you have and I can even scan the pictures for you for better explanation.

Hope this helps!

 

Go to NastyZ/28.com they have a transmission guide there to see which one you have. But Seri is right on how to adjust the tv cable for the 200 4R and 700 4R trans.

 

From the time I was in the "Chevelles of Europe" club, we had this on the website:

http://home.orange.nl/henri.kwakkel/trans/trans.htm

 

Thats a good one but take a look at http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-transmission-identification.php

 

You are right, much more info. I can remember that we were very proud to have that in that time on the website of our little club...
Well, the good old days......

 

Well, I seem to be facing a similar scenario! I drove our Wagon (Caprice classic 90) to a transmission specialist who opened the oil pan telling me that an oil read is enough to diagnose a transmission. The oil was changed a couple of years ago (8000 miles) and yet we found in the pan some dark thicker oil a bit like a very dark mayonaise!! No metal particles found. Still, he told me that it was on its last leg and complete rebuilt is to be scheduled soon.
I'm very sceptical! This car has been services regularly, never towed anything, was never used as a hauler and only have 90k miles.....!!!
I carried out the TV cable reset see if it make any difference.
Now, The rebuilt is estimated at $1200. Expensice or reasonable?
Thanks.

 

I don't trust transmission shops because of how they used to do business in Southern Ontario. Back in the mid-60's a transmission rebuild was $400. Minimum wage was $1.50 in 1965. Today, that price seems reasonable at $1,200, and to get all the muck out, they would have to remove it, take it apart, put new clutch packs and seals in and new fluid. So it sounds fair, but pricey. If the warranty is for a year or more, for all repairs, and leaks, then it should last for years.

Why don't you check with a GM dealer that you trust, and the Better Business Bureau for the place that quoted you?

 

When the clutch material wears it ends up in the pan. Thus the filter to keep it out of the rest of the transmission. I've had three Ford C5 trannys rebuilt because the clutches wore out. On my Fords in the beginning there was some hesitation to engage then they wouldn't shift properly, then not move at all. My Fords being 3 speed non-overdrive transmissions were relatively cheap to rebuild as the planitary gear sets were still good. With new torque converters and the new clutches, gaskets, labor and fluid they were $980 at a very compitent local transmission shop. I don't think $1200 is out of line if a torque converter is included. The shop I used replaces those as a matter or course because they can not be adequately cleaned or refurbished at the retail/ local shop level. The last thing you want is a dirty torque converter fouling the rest of the transmission. The sludge you see in the pan may also be found inside the torque converter.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for your input. A few days later, it seems that the TV cable reset has helped! But I yet have to drive it on the highway for at least 30 minutes and then drive in town to verify the effectiveness of the reset. I simply think that the transmission shop is trying to rip me off. A worn out transmission would disfonction all the time and not solely in very specific circumstances.... what do you reckon?

 

the pins you speak of in the tailgate....what am i looking for as my buick may be having a similar problem